RIP, Loulou de la Falaise 1947-2011
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Irreverent Sold!
Went to Colette yesterday, I thought might bump into her or even take a look of the book. However, neither was in the house, as she’d already departed from her signature session and Colette’s 1st batch of order was sold out too. There’s none in display (except the window, bien sûr). People on TFS argue on her over exposure this month, my thought is not alike. Why should she be living in recluse like Tom Ford or Hedi Slimane? As she’s now a well-famed individual and freelancer, and clearly an icon of our time, she’s a persona, a style, a brand, and above all, way beyond fashion. Barney’s, Chanel, David Webb, V, i-D cover, new book, another book coming with Lagerfeld later, interview after interview et al, a team Carine is formed. Planned strategy or not, the demand is there and not for forever, she’d be stupid not to make use of what’s on hand. Not everyone can achieve this, not Emmanuelle, IMO. To the ones in the know, she’s almost like ‘moved on, slaps you across the face and screams: “Fuck you, I live larger than life and better than ever!”‘. Very empowering. Very IRREVERENT indeed!
The 2nd order will arrive at Colette next Monday or Tuesday.
Neon Binns@www.joyce.com
After Piers Atkinson, JOYCE continues to collaborate with contemporary mavericks. For AW2011, they invite Tom Binns to produce a series of his iconic styles, and mix them into a good range of neon colours. Sold exclusively at JOYCE.com, the diamante Masai necklace is splattered in neon paint contrasted with black strands, while safety pins in hand-dipped neon paint adorned chains of necklaces and chandelier earrings. With such strong shot of cultural reference in the palette, the whole daring effect exudes rebellious creativity with undermined elegance. it takes an open mind to rework his own past, reinvent it and take up to a new level!
I like the short clip in which presents with such nonchalant, unpretentious attitude for those exquisite numbers. The clever choice of nail colours and fuschia sweater were there just to tip things off and contrast, without sharping it up too vividly. Wanna grab when still hot? Tom Binns for JOYCE.com is available on 20th September,2011. Buy it now!
Resort 2012 | Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière
Good, non? Normally, wouldn’t talk about the collection for spring, resort (or whatever you call ‘em) this early, but as a teaser, why not? Cap shoulder, bell sleeves, straight-flare leggy bottom – an inspirational silhouette that, twisted and evolved, echos his early work at Balenciaga in the Noughties, a new stylish look for today. Clever as always (w/ poison water story line), love the fact that it’s dominated by clothes that are colourful and full of design elements, rather strong for a pre-collection, honestly, and very wearable too.
Directed by Steven Meisel
Concept & Creative Direction : Raul Martinez, AR New York
Models : Milou, Miranda Kerr, Jamie Bochert, Zuzanna Bijoch, Nyasha, Colinne Michaelis
Stylist : Marie Amélie Sauvé
Make up artist : Pat McGrath
Hair stylist : Odile Gilbert
Music by Philip Glass
Update: Is she shifting away from Prada and Oscar? Anna Wintour has been supporting Balenciaga’s pre-collection in the last couple of season.
Memory Lane | Yohji Homme
Yohji Homme - launched in 1999.
This reminds me of a date at la Piazzetta, Central, a special evening that was …
With clean short haircut and fine-rimmed glasses accentuating the unpretentious look, T.Y. was bright, handsome, cute and witty. That night, the lanky US-trained architect wore a casual checked shirt and a pair of jeans, but above all, I was most intrigued by the scent that fumed around, although not a Yohji fan, I rushed to buy one the next day.
“What went wrong?”
“Dunno. Maybe it’d work in 10 years … who knows?” T.Y. replied.
The nasal nostalgia left mark when we were young and beautiful. It’s funny how whiffs of scent can bring up episodic memory like this. Housed in a tall elegant bottle, the discontinued scent was created by ‘the nose’ Jean-Michel Duriez at Patou parfums, and later acquired by Procter & Gamble in 2002.
Top note: Coriander, Lavender, Bergamot, Anise.
Middle note: Rosewood, Cinnamon, Carnation, Geranium.
Base Note: Cedar, Tonka, Leather, Rhum.
Carine’s World
Under Hunting | The White Briefs
Dunno if you’d share the same p.o.v., when it comes to under garment, the market bias to women’s product (/business) over men’s, and the choices for men aren’t diverse nor great neither: funny colour, cartoon prints or branded waistband. Yikes! All in all, the teen market’s taste, remotely cares about what grown up men want as if they don’t exist. It’s truly difficult to find something decent, simple and clean, especially in classic briefs. Once again, the online retail platform solves this problem. Coincidently, two brands surfaced: The White Briefs and Ron Dorff. Something to do with their Swedish root maybe, what really appeals to me is their modern genuine approach and eclectic styling. They both offer, with attention to details, no frill undies and loungewear basics and market in such unpretentious way. While TWB included all men, women and kids, Ron Dorff focuses on men’s 24/7 needs such as undie, gym, swim, body care, and even energy drink. See, with underwear, the neater the better, how difficult is that?
In Thier Own Words | The White Briefs’ vision is clear. We want to meet our customers with a new range of compelling everyday items. It’s about thoughtfullness and vitality, being visionary and to invigorate the business. The shapes are classic with an eye on subtle adjustments and detailing. The White Briefs’ takes social and environmental responsibility and delivers a high quality product in all aspects. Organic farming is a production method that not only respects human health and the environment, but is also a model of sustainable development, that improves the quality of the resources of local communities, helping them to face global competition. We are using GOTS certified fabrics. The White Briefs’ HQ is located in the surroundings of the breathtaking landscape of Österlen in the southern part of Sweden. For The White Briefs, humanity, quality and 360 degrees of new thinking solutions are the key ingredients. http://www.thewhitebriefs.com
AW2011 | Gant Rugger by Michael Bastian
A bit like a dapper version of <Reality Bites> for today, innit? Gant Rugger is designed by the equally handsome man, Michael Bastian.
Great Inspirations | Vanity Fair Sept 2011
Although a cliche piece, but still, I’m glad to see Lucie de la Falaise back in the spotlight. What a shame that Pilati didn’t amp up and ask her to front this season’s campaign- better yet, with her brother Daniel for men’s, next season maybe …
As the term ‘muse’ is almost as overused and vague as ‘icon’ these days, Vanity Fair showcases ten major contemporary designers alongside their partner-in-crime in the September issue. Instead of lounging around and inspiring as muses should be, some of them just embody and interpret the creator’s vision well, there’s no odd coupling, at least. This somehow reminds me of the <Magnificent Seven> that Vogue US featured in 2005. I think it kind of makes sense that Marc and Karl are not included, neither is Miuccia Prada, whom I think of highly but really belongs to the generation before this noughties crowd. IMO, I’d put Olivier Theyskens to replace Francesco Costa, and Guillaume Henry of Carven instead of Sarah Burton.
Sadly, it also indicates that only 2 out of 10 are independent designers: Proenza Schouler and Haider Ackermann, all the rest are just employers, serving old houses or brands, it shows the reality of fashion world today- not a designer moment, especially in Europe. On the other hand, despite the fact that NYC has a better-developed group of independent designers, only two representatives are included: Proenza Schouler and Francesco Cosa at Calvin Klein, what does it say?
Models (L to R): Stefano Pilati of YSL with Lucie de la Falaise, Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga with Charlotte Gainsbourg, Phoebe Philo of Céline with Stella Tennant, Pier Paolo Piccoloi & Maria Grazia Chiuri of Valentino with Florence Welch, Lara Stone with Francesco Costa of Calvin Klein, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy with Carine Roitfeld, Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler with Liya Kebede and Dakota Fanning, Haider Ackermann with Tilda Swinton, Peter Copping of Nina Ricci with Arizona Muse, Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen with Cate Blanchett.
AW2011 | Maria Luisa Paris
Nowadays, everyone can click onto style.com for any shows anytime in the world, there’s really no point for this site to post any of them again – unless, they are exceptionally good, little known, off-scheduled maybe; or else, they’re simply people we bias towards and admire to deserve such space. In this case, it’s all of the above. Already the fifth collection for her eponymous line, Maria Luisa stretched her idea of ‘Chic par Cher’ (Style for Less) to its maximum limit yet in AW2011. Following her chic Parisian dressing golden rule, these easy sensible separates are there to be mix ‘n matched and go cohesively with any garment sold in her boutiques. You’d get lots of black of course, some fluffy off-milky white, then ML raised the bar by offering touches of shimmering gold in quilt pattern before hitting the seasonal note – python. The oozing modernity gently recalls some of Nicolas Ghesquière’s early Balenciaga wearable pieces.
As summarised in her own word – “These are affordable, universal clothes, indispensable allies for active, urban women in Paris, New York or elsewhere. The collection strives to be essential but shies away from boring basics. Each season features easy-to-wear dresses with mandatory pockets for that relaxed stance. Fabrics are high quality, soft to touch, ready to travel. They can be rolled up into a suitcase and endlessly reinvented.” All in all – modernity. Budgeted buyers? Aren’t we all? None of these foundation pieces priced over 500 euros; a sweet gift for Mme. Poumaillou’s not-too-sweet clientele, non?
Maria Luisa Paris collection is available at her eponymous boutiques at Printemps Paris, Hong Kong and The Corner.
