Good, non? Normally, wouldn’t talk about the collection for spring, resort (or whatever you call ‘em) this early, but as a teaser, why not? Cap shoulder, bell sleeves, straight-flare leggy bottom – an inspirational silhouette that, twisted and evolved, echos his early work at Balenciaga in the Noughties, a new stylish look for today. Clever as always (w/ poison water story line), love the fact that it’s dominated by clothes that are colourful and full of design elements, rather strong for a pre-collection, honestly, and very wearable too.

Directed by Steven Meisel
Concept & Creative Direction : Raul Martinez, AR New York
Models : Milou, Miranda Kerr, Jamie Bochert, Zuzanna Bijoch, Nyasha, Colinne Michaelis
Stylist : Marie Amélie Sauvé
Make up artist : Pat McGrath
Hair stylist : Odile Gilbert
Music by Philip Glass

Update: Is she shifting away from Prada and Oscar? Anna Wintour has been supporting Balenciaga’s pre-collection in the last couple of season.

Yohji Homme - launched in 1999.

This reminds me of a date at la Piazzetta, Central, a special evening that was …

With clean short haircut and fine-rimmed glasses accentuating the unpretentious look, T.Y. was bright, handsome, cute and witty. That night, the lanky US-trained architect wore a casual checked shirt and a pair of jeans, but above all, I was most intrigued by the scent that fumed around, although not a Yohji fan, I rushed to buy one the next day.

“What went wrong?”
“Dunno. Maybe it’d work in 10 years … who knows?” T.Y. replied.

The nasal nostalgia left mark when we were young and beautiful. It’s funny how whiffs of scent can bring up episodic memory like this. Housed in a tall elegant bottle, the discontinued scent was created by ‘the nose’ Jean-Michel Duriez at Patou parfums, and later acquired by Procter & Gamble in 2002.

Top note: Coriander, Lavender, Bergamot, Anise.
Middle note: Rosewood, Cinnamon, Carnation, Geranium.
Base Note: Cedar, Tonka, Leather, Rhum.

Dunno if you’d share the same p.o.v., when it comes to under garment, the market bias to women’s product (/business) over men’s, and the choices for men aren’t diverse nor great neither: funny colour, cartoon prints or branded waistband. Yikes! All in all, the teen market’s taste, remotely cares about what grown up men want as if they don’t exist. It’s truly difficult to find something decent, simple and clean, especially in classic briefs. Once again, the online retail platform solves this problem. Coincidently, two brands surfaced: The White Briefs and Ron Dorff. Something to do with their Swedish root maybe, what really appeals to me is their modern genuine approach and eclectic styling. They both offer, with attention to details, no frill undies and loungewear basics and market in such unpretentious way. While TWB included all men, women and kids, Ron Dorff focuses on men’s 24/7 needs such as undie, gym, swim, body care, and even energy drink. See, with underwear, the neater the better, how difficult is that?

In Thier Own Words   |   The White Briefs’ vision is clear. We want to meet our customers with a new range of compelling everyday items. It’s about thoughtfullness and vitality, being visionary and to invigorate the business. The shapes are classic with an eye on subtle adjustments and detailing. The White Briefs’ takes social and environmental responsibility and delivers a high quality product in all aspects. Organic farming is a production method that not only respects human health and the environment, but is also a model of sustainable development, that improves the quality of the resources of local communities, helping them to face global competition. We are using GOTS certified fabrics. The White Briefs’ HQ is located in the surroundings of the breathtaking landscape of Österlen in the southern part of Sweden. For The White Briefs, humanity, quality and 360 degrees of new thinking solutions are the key ingredients.                                                 http://www.thewhitebriefs.com

Although a cliche piece, but still, I’m glad to see Lucie de la Falaise back in the spotlight. What a shame that Pilati didn’t amp up and ask her to front this season’s campaign- better yet, with her brother Daniel for men’s, next season maybe …

As the term ‘muse’ is almost as overused and vague as ‘icon’ these days, Vanity Fair showcases ten major contemporary designers alongside their partner-in-crime in the September issue. Instead of lounging around and inspiring as muses should be, some of them just embody and interpret the creator’s vision well, there’s no odd coupling, at least. This somehow reminds me of the <Magnificent Seven> that Vogue US featured in 2005. I think it kind of makes sense that Marc and Karl are not included, neither is Miuccia Prada, whom I think of highly but really belongs to the generation before this noughties crowd. IMO, I’d put Olivier Theyskens to replace Francesco Costa, and Guillaume Henry of Carven instead of Sarah Burton.

Sadly, it also indicates that only 2 out of 10 are independent designers: Proenza Schouler and Haider Ackermann, all the rest are just employers, serving old houses or brands, it shows the reality of fashion world today- not a designer moment, especially in Europe. On the other hand, despite the fact that NYC has a better-developed group of independent designers, only two representatives are included: Proenza Schouler and Francesco Cosa at Calvin Klein, what does it say?

Models (L to R): Stefano Pilati of YSL with Lucie de la Falaise, Nicolas Ghesquière of Balenciaga with Charlotte Gainsbourg, Phoebe Philo of Céline with Stella Tennant, Pier Paolo Piccoloi & Maria Grazia Chiuri of Valentino with Florence Welch, Lara Stone with Francesco Costa of Calvin Klein, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy with Carine Roitfeld, Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler with Liya Kebede and Dakota Fanning, Haider Ackermann with Tilda Swinton, Peter Copping of Nina Ricci with Arizona Muse, Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen with Cate Blanchett.

Nowadays, everyone can click onto style.com for any shows anytime in the world, there’s really no point for this site to post any of them again – unless, they are exceptionally good, little known, off-scheduled maybe; or else, they’re simply people we bias towards and admire to deserve such space. In this case, it’s all of the above. Already the fifth collection for her eponymous line, Maria Luisa stretched her idea of ‘Chic par Cher’ (Style for Less) to its maximum limit yet in AW2011. Following her chic Parisian dressing golden rule, these easy sensible separates are there to be mix ‘n matched and go cohesively with any garment sold in her boutiques. You’d get lots of black of course, some fluffy off-milky white, then ML raised the bar by offering touches of shimmering gold in quilt pattern before hitting the seasonal note – python. The oozing modernity gently recalls some of Nicolas Ghesquière’s early Balenciaga wearable pieces.

As summarised in her own word – “These are affordable, universal clothes, indispensable allies for active, urban women in Paris, New York or elsewhere. The collection strives to be essential but shies away from boring basics. Each season features easy-to-wear dresses with mandatory pockets for that relaxed stance. Fabrics are high quality, soft to touch, ready to travel. They can be rolled up into a suitcase and endlessly reinvented.” All in all – modernity. Budgeted buyers? Aren’t we all? None of these foundation pieces priced over 500 euros; a sweet gift for Mme. Poumaillou’s not-too-sweet clientele, non?

Maria Luisa Paris collection is available at her eponymous boutiques at Printemps Paris, Hong Kong and The Corner.

Long before Ghesquiere and Tisci, I think she was one of the first to use a dog (Jack Russell) as logo motif to represent the brand, so was A. Bomb (bull terrier) from Japan. Nothing to do with her dad‘s recent passing. Among those ‘knit experts’: Gilles Dufour, Eric Bompard, Lucien Pellat-Finet, Julian MacDonald, et al., I always notice her existence. With nice price point, supposedly nice quality, cute as a button, and yet, eccentric as always; why don’t we get Bella Freud in Hong Kong anymore, hello, Harvey Nichols?

For AW2011, Bella Freud created a small collection of knitwear featuring four drawings by Christian Louboutin, namely Fetish. The dresses and jumpers in 100% superfine Merino Cashwool in black and green with hints of Lurex portray images of shoes drawn especially by Christian, who claimed to have “always loved Bella’s jumpers”, and he’s not alone. Catherine Deneuve, Jane Birkin, Madonna, Susie Bick, Elle MacPherson and Kate Moss are all fans.

“Fetish is a word we both derive a lot of inspiration from and this collection is a result of twenty years of friendship and mutual love of all things shoes between Christian and me.”   - Bella Freud.

Sweater at retail £240-£350. Leotard at retail £400. Bella Freud x Christian Louboutin Fetish collection is available on http://www.bellafreud.co.uk/shop/.

The life span of fashion used to last for six months, thanks for the internet, it’s now vastly shortened to six weeks max maybe? Things are barely heat up for a minute before turning into frozen ice. Insiders, media, bloggers, myself included … those who’re responsible for this are asking why and how without knowing the answer. There’s too much fashion for the wrong reasons, and there’s no way back. AW2011 trends have expired, long before its mid-season sell-by date. My eyes are spoiled and yearning for alternatives and newness again. Question is, however, is there any newness left? I speak for myself, adjust my own taste and senses, support those that are visually quieter, gimmick-less, genuine, more soulful and with heart. In short, not to be fooled by the deceitful hype.

For whatever reasons, long, bleak silhouettes (often cut in bias) seem to catch my eyes particularly; so do off, dreary, twisted elements with dark vibe. An antidote for overexposed fashion or those produced en mass, maybe? When first came across his last name few years ago, I thought “oh not another Asian designers,” Singaporean la? But no, he’s actually a Canadian. Besides his nationality, I pay little attention to his work, until recently. I admire the fact that the independent Laing does not play the game or try hard to kiss the American establishment, probably due to where he bases. In the AW2011 collection, Laing shows us something uniquely ethereal, dream-like and above all, radically chic, IMO. “I was fascinated by the lunar eclipse,” he says. “But the mood is not spacey — more of how we look on the moon as a muse, how we look up at it, earthbound.” Laing said of this collection.

Two prints, "Eclipse" and "Hand of Glory", are specially made in collaboration with artist Scott Treleaven

Photo by Max Abadian

About Jeremy Laing | Canadian-born Jeremy Laing spent his childhood on an army base in Germnay. He learned to sew at age 13 by watching his mother, and has been making clothes ever since.

Jeremy’s self-taught method, which combines organic and geometric approaches to pattern making and construction, was honed while studying in Toronto, on exchange at Westminster University in London, and through an apprenticeship with Alexander McQueen. Following his apprenticeship, Jeremy worked freelance developing showpieces for five of McQueen’s collections, demonstrationg his strength in innovative patten making, garment construction, and the use of  textile to create form.

In Jeremy’s view, garments are a sum of parts, all functioning in relation to one another and, ultimately, to the body. His collections often stem from his elaborations on simple principles of construction and form, drawing simultaneously from couture and tailoring traditions.

Jeremy currently lives and works in Toronto, Canada.

As a hand-free supporter, I’m all behind the no-bag movement personally, bags weigh me down, and it doesn’t look chic. But deep down I know, no matter how much I decline to, might have to give in for the life I soon lead. I need a couple of sturdy ones, ideally black or dark colour for daily use; plus, I don’t want it to break my bank (or back, for that matter). Without being fooled by the 1990s tattooed model Scott Barnhill (Gisele Bündchen’s ex), this 1st collaboration of Kris Van Assche x Eastpak for AW2011/12 look rather nice, and they’re even featured at KVA’s own show too.

Belgian designer Kris van Assche teamed up with Eastpak to create 7 new styles. The bags are military and sportswear inspired, using leather and raw canvas. They’re practical and minimal, without renouncing the designer’s appreciation for sleek lines and sophisticated textures. The collection will be available from June this year. (*Text: Philippe Pourhashemi | *Photo: Sybille Walter)

Yes, they’ll go on for SS2012 *here.

Kris Van Assche x Eastpak is available at Harvey Nichols, Hong Kong.

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