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Reading this just now alerted me, but followed by style.com shocked me. Although the report is about Equipment, the French shirt brand founded by Christian Restoin, Carine Roitfeld’s partner, being revived by Serge Azria, CEO and creative director of Joie and Current/Elliott, and Restoin has signed on as a creative consultant. What caught my attention was both Fashionologie and style.com suspect the silk khaki shirt Carine wore during recent fashion week was from that line, when it’s in fact from Paul Smith’s FW09 (exit 22 to be exact).

A friend asked me during our conversation- ‘What do you think about the strawberries?’

I answered with a big sigh- ‘They were delicate embroideries in the old days (mostly by Lesage, who else), what he’s offering now are strawberry batches. It looks cheap and too cantoon-y.’

The decision on using batches instead makes me wonder if it’s all due to the depressing economy weather or in fact cost cutting (which leads to lower retail price). I miss the early work of Pilati, they were more directional, abstract, challenging, a little devil may care, and yet still manage to scream YSL. Now, he’s to me, too calculated and try-hard. Has he become overly confident or got too much freedom after the successful FW08 show? I think he got carried away after that show. Where’s the joy? Elegance? Contagious emotion? The love to women? Search me …

My friend sent me the link via email simply noting ‘What a pity.’ I replied -

‘I read that piece too.

As I went thru it, 2 solutions came up to mind: 1) She should have taken the advantage of Balmain ‘n do the vintage Versace ‘looks’. That’d be so kitsch ‘n Gianni would probably have done so if alive, just to outdo and prove the originality. 2) Hire Christopher Kane immediately, he’s the only final hope for the house, ‘n let’s hope it’s just the matter of time … However though, I wouldn’t sell it as suggested in the article.’

I think a lot of people think the same.

povheadlines

  1. <Italian Touch>| Commissioned by Tod’s and published by Skira. A book about Italian celeb households. To sell it to fashion people, they count on Anna Della Russo. Carla Sozzani of Milan’ll celebrate at Corso Como and art gallery is hosting a block party.
  2. “Nothing comes between me and my Calvins”| Reading through a piece like this brings back so much memory and always makes me rediscover the best of the designer. <Calvin to the Core> by Ingrid Sischy at Vanity Fair.
  3. Radical thinking| Radical Rad.
  4. Clever move|Rick Owens DRKSHDW x Eastpak
  5. Peek thru| Take a nosy peek at how Lucas Ossendrijver works through The Shelby‘s lens.

povhl

  1. Illustrative blogging | Do you like Jean-Philippe Delhomme? Check his blog for an artist’s journey.
  2. That Balenciaga Jacket | I fully support Susannah Frankel’s strong defence on Ghesquière’s creativity.
  3. Schiaparelli Lives On | Like he did for Poiret, Alaïa hosted a Schiaaparelli auction preview  at his HQ, in which the selected few took a final glimpse before the sale, he even  bathed all of the looks in shocking pink lights. 
  4. 10yrs MJxJT | Up for grab also is a collective coffee table book of Marc Jacobs campaign. Published by Steidl, documented chronologically from the first campaign for spring/summer 1998 to the present day done by Juergen Teller.

pov2

  •  Keeeping up the order | Hermès breeds their own crocodile in order to keep up the demand on croco Kelly.
  • Lulu Guinness awarded | The handbag designer talks about sweet and sour and her forever inspiration Elsa Schiaparelli.
  • CdG celebrates in guerrilla-style | Suzy Menkes talks to Rei Kawakubo about her power of black and 10 new guerrilla stores.
  • A magazine by Proenza Schouler | Are they getting exclusive or arsy at Nathalie Ours or why? seems like July Stars was the only one who’s blogged about it with related pictures. For what reason tho?
  • Online power Take 2 | Thefacehunter Show: Paris II & MYKROMAG issue II.

pov4
  1. Economic tsunami? Financial hurricane? What recession?! Supported by his dream team and growing fanfare, US based designer Phillip Lim is having none of it. Wen Zhou, CEO of 3.1 Phillip Lim revealed the ups – and ups. Joyce Hong Kong will be opening a flagship for him this coming August.
  2. “I do think [it’s] not a bad time to do it. What if all the stores that carry me are going to have a hard time of it? It’s in a way a good investment. Since I decided to keep going with this design thing anyway, I might as well do some stores. I might as well invest in it.” Rick Owens explains his expansion in London.
  3. MObama vs Carkozy’s aftermath. A conclusion by the pros: Oscar de la Renta thinks “there are a lot of great designers out there. I think it’s wrong to go in one direction only.” And he’s not referring to Carkozy. “You don’t go to Buckingham Palace in a sweater (Alaïa’s).” Mr Alaïa hisses back “It’s not up to him to give her lessons; Michelle Obama is of her time; Oscar de la Renta is no longer.” Make ways, Lagerfeld.
  4. Christopher Kane is launching an unisex tee shirt line featuring the gorilla, the chimp, the mandrille and the baboon in silk-jersey. Can’t wait! Should we call  this an evolution of Balenciaga’s jungle tee par Kane?

pov headlines

  1. Dior, YSL and Givenchy. Prefall 09 continues.
  2. Now the mens’ are over, let’s check out this professional recap, shall we?
  3. Is he at Givenchy still? Anthony Vaccarello stood out at Maria Luisa during 26Jan-4Feb, when de la Fressange was the real winner?
  4. Suzy talks to Gaultier and Lacroix about their couture when Felipe Oliveira Baptista enchanted me.
  5. Behind the scene at des ateliers with petites mains; plus a handful of off runway looks through the European lens.
  6. Cathy Horyn’s view on Valentino couture speaks my heart. As for Alessandra Facchinetti, maybe Tod’s Diego Della Valle can take her for Elsa Schiaparelli. Not only her work fits, also since she doesn’t like to do interviews, that would go well with co.’s low key designer manner.
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