Naomi Alaïa
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Monthly Archives: January 2010
Fall 2010 | Pucci par Peter Dundas
Fall 2010 | Yves Saint Laurent par Stefano Pilati
I know, I know, this is it, I get the ambiguous feelings from the work of Stefano Pilati at YSL from time to time, don’t we all?
However, as soon as I went through this collection, it’s a hit! To me at least. I think he nailed it again at the pre-collection, things that I want to see him doing for this house are all included- the elegance, the beauty, the slightly twisted cutting, and that tiny bit of vintage 70s air without OTT or boring cliché. He strikes a good balance between day ‘n night. One might suggest that the cocktail numbers are sharper, but well, guess we don’t mind a little bit of glamour once in a while?! This is a gift from Stefano Pilati to all women around the world who lead that life. To me, this’s the best prefall in 2010.
Edition Unisex | Yves Saint Laurent par Stefano Pilati
On The List | February 2010
Kate Moss for Longchamp
Personal endorsement + Youtube clips = successful product launch
After the coverage in many February issues worldwide (Elle Fr & Russia, VogueParis) came out and within days of exposing on Youtube and other online publication, she knows there’s no better marketing tools other than her own physic. Kate Moss launches her creations for Longchamp, the French handbag label she’s modeled since 2006, simply by stepping out of the doorstep, just to be in line with the news. They threw a launch party in Paris in which was attended by Loulou de la Falaise, Vahina Giocante, Carine Roitfeld among others, as seen here.
Azzaro | PE2010
To describe it ‘pretty’ is not enough. It’s a beautiful cocktail wardrobe with distinctive flair, very focus.
Alaïa fw2003 | The Body! The Dress! The Supe!
“When he was studying fine art, he told me that he used to stand in front of a painting and look at it for a long time, he’d imagine how the back of the dress on the subject is like, as there was no video or anything 3-D back then…”
“He works only at night. Sometimes, when Eugenie goes out late, she’d pass by the maison near all the bars, and see the light still on, then she knew he’s working still. He’s one of those who doesn’t need a lot of sleep…”
“No matter who, or what they ask him to do, he won’t give in, he just won’t. There’s not many diva left, and he’s certainly one.”
- ML shared all these about him.
He’s known for not giving interview, not staging big shows (since the Mid-90s), not giving in, not compromising. In fact, he does stage shows at the maison, usually during the couture week, invite merely a handful of dear friends, peers, and close editors- the family. Here’s a rare clip from his f/w2003, Miuccia Prada, Yohji, Mario Testino, Carla Sozzni, Kenzo, Martine Sitbon were all there.
The Rake
Early in the morning, I was wandering around, waiting to be abroad, trying to look for magazines to kill time at the bookstore. I picked this up and flipped through it and thought: ‘I never notice this mag before’- and IT WAS GOOD! Literally every page is worth reading and enjoyable. The articles are not too long or short, but just right! if you’re interested in well-dressed or dandyism, menswear in general, <The Rake> would be the go-to book; it feeds well to both straight and gay, it’s at the right size, not too heavy, the paper texture, font and layout used are exquisite. Plus, it includes no blond bombshells, playmates or explicit sex pages (thank God for that), and above all- of the moment. I can’t see any flaws in this book, maybe except one: they mentioned far too much about Tom Ford throughout, be it the person or his products, as if it was a deal (I genuinely hope that’s just the editor’s irresistible obsession to everything Ford, who looks so Botox’d now).
Before long, magazines for men used to be too: macho, hunky, flaky, try hard to ooze ‘luxurious’, OTT camp or gay, there’s always too much of something – vulgar, let’s put it this way. Not anymore. What happened to men’s magazines these days? There’s such big market for menswear and they blossom editorially. <Fantastic Man>, <Monocle>, <Inventory> (available at Kapok exclusively), and now <The Rake>. These are all good and in high quality. Each has individual character to cater their own readership. Each has something loud to say.
If <Inventory> was born for the hi-lo hipsters and geeks who care about all-thing-Japan as well as crafts ‘n quality of casualwear- the h(y)r collective-guys basically, then <The Rake> is the polar extreme and counterbalance for dandies and well-dressed men, simply the ideal read for the fans of Sartorialist. It’s been around for a year, and I wanna back issue the previous ones just to make it complete.
The Rake #5: Tom Ford interview & editorial/ Kris Van Assche's Bruno Aires/ Jean Cocteau/ E. Marinella/ E. Zegna's Mongolia/ Kiton/ JFK's style/ Veronique Nichanian's interview/ Philippe J. Leboeuf's attention to details/
The Catwalk | Christy Turlington
As a huge fan of supermodels, I always wanna watch it, but never get a chance to, thanks to youtube, some good people posted it up to share and brought back so much memory – the enlightening years of mine. The last years of creative fashion when Alaïa was about to fade out, the prime time of Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, before the minimalists and avant-garde like Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and co. take over, and the mega time of logomanic Gucci, Prada, LV approaches.
No, I wasn’t a fan of Christy, but yes to Linda and Naomi back in the days (and still am). Although barely any scene of Linda can be seen, the film mainly focus on Christy and Naomi, both really took baby Kate under their wings, as well as Yasmin Le Bon and Carla Bruni – the golden era of supermodel, just before Kirsten McMenamy, Amber Valetta, Shalom Harlow came along…
Then, there was the young wicked John- John Galliano, the wunderkind, the golden boy, the master-in-the-making. The film captured his Princess Lucretia collection(SS1994)- the original start of many magic Galliano moments. Under the music of Jeremy Healy, it was raw, powerful, naughty, sassy, extreme fun, and he was completely broke (he skipped the previous season due to the pull out from his backer). Both Amanda Harlech and the-late Stephen Robinson, Galliano’s left- and right-hand member looking every bit disheveled in the the poor old days. And of course the supermodel did it for free and Manolo Blahnik sponsored the shoes. The bias-cut dresses were in every single Vogue, and everywhere else after. Years later, I remember asking my friend Lucie if she’d experienced these Galliano moments, sadly she was too young back then, now she can see it here through this clips.
Other then Galliano, there were also lengthy portions on the-late Gianni Versace, Gautier and Azzedine Alaïa. Just keep watching.
