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Monthly Archives: July 2009

KTQRSDG0L7_Prada_CS_FW09_0014After last season, this is probably the most anticipated menswear campaign for a long time. 

For the second season, Hedi Slimane shoots Prada’s menswear AW09 collection as you can see them in magazines and in-store window now. Under his lens, Slimane continues the black ‘n white preference and bishōnen cast. Just like the collection itself, the photos, all close-ups shots, look modern, serene, young, commercial and ultimately desirable. Although some suggest the shots have no room for such big nose, but think about it, Prada is never about conventional beauty, huh?

(*original source: www.prada.com >TFS)

ysl_dvdAs I said before, I will go on musing all things Saint Laurent, as the original house of Yves Saint Laurent was always fascinating, and still is. Ever since his death, tributes flood in: a musical was born dedicating to him, designers paying hommage through various look in their collections, and of course, the controversial auction with Christie’s that lingered with the fight with the China government.

Now, a documentary DVD and an exhibition, as Pierre Bergé has promised (which some say has been planning in the back of his mind since 1962) are to be unveiled. The Petit Palais will host from 11 March to 29 August 2010, a major retrospective of Monsieur Saint Laurent’s work. Organized by the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, 250 garments created between 1962 and 2002 will be exposed, as well as photos and sketches. Probably the last chance to look into the world of Yves Saint Laurent fashion- a final encounter.

AT HOME WITH YVES: In spring 1968, before the stirrings of student revolt, a power shift of another kind took place in the French fashion world. On “Dim Dam Dom,” a Sunday night TV show targeting French women, Coco Chanel named Yves Saint Laurent as her successor, while simultaneously accusing him of copying her. Saint Laurent’s shy but categorical riposte, on the following month’s show and since stored in the National Audiovisual Institute’s archives, is set to get another airing via DVD release, along with “Tout Terriblement,” a documentary about Saint Laurent screened by Arte Editions in 1994. “First of all, I’m very flattered that Mademoiselle Chanel deigned to take an interest in what I’m doing and that she designated me her successor,” he told “Dim Dam Dom.” “But I am not at all in agreement when she says I copy her.” If he copied her, Saint Laurent declared, he wouldn’t be successful: “I think also the big difference between me and Mademoiselle Chanel is that I try to bring women a style that allows them to adapt their style to my dresses and allows them to develop their personalities. While a woman who wears Chanel resembles Mademoiselle Chanel.” Equally enthralling, the accompanying 48-minute film by documentary maker Jérôme de Missolz, narrated by the late Saint Laurent and Jeanne Moreau, promises a frank portrait of the designer recounting the ups — “I love glory. Glory is a feast” — and downs: “Pierre Bergé is surely right when he claims I was born with a nervous breakdown.” Had Saint Laurent ever married, he would have married Victoire, he declared of the model and muse. And his one regret? “Not to have invented the jean.” The DVD, which will be released in November, comes with an endorsement from Saint Laurent himself. “You have, with a rare sensitivity, captured and understood everything I have tried to express for many years,” he wrote to de Missolz when he first saw the film. (*original source: WWD)

Like many great legends, this man will never really die.

lvIs it just me or what? I think it’s somehow a certain level of influence from VogueParis once again.

As I was browsing at their luggage section on Vuitton’s website, I see this beautiful <French Touch: A Woman in Paris> story. You click on the picture and get all the objects’ detail from the styling on the right. The whole thing is not unlike VogueParis’s <En Vogue> section and Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele’s editorial combined, all presented in an e-way. This is clever and surprisingly, it’s not at all vulgar nor hardselling. Totally working for both fashion lovers and customers. Speaking of the devil, maybe Donatella Versace should consider using Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele again, as she’s once her late brother’s confidante and now back en vogue. Time to shake that vava voom.

88878783.preview“Christian Lacroix Forever”. Badges and banners say it all. It could be the last couture show in his career, but it won’t be his eternal finale. At least I hope not, especially after such sublimely modern collection, which dare I say it loud, is the best, far better than some of his peers this season. The show was pulled together by a wealth of labor of love: models worked for €50; embroderiers and millier contributed for free; cafe from his neighbourhood supplied the buffet. Approved by Diego Della Valle, Inès de la Fressange and Bruno Frisoni sponsored the Vivier heels. Supporters, fans, press friends and loyal customers applauded for each exit. Also in presence, LVMH President Yves Carcelle was there “to support”, ignited some rumors on the possibility of buying back.

“I want to continue, maybe in a different way, with a small atelier. What I really care about is the women who do this work.” Lacroix reveals. That’s the way to go. Run it like Alaïa. God bless him.

Read on for all related coverage, especially the one from Vogue Daily, Hamish Bowles exclusively tells all on Lacroix’s tragedy, which we know was largely caused by the ignorant consumerism on handbag: StyleTelegraph UKFashionologieNY Times,Vogue DailyIHT.

kapokIt’s always a great pleasure to meet up with my dear friend M. Arnault Castel, owner / retailer of select shop Kapok this afternoon. He’s, I dare say, one of the very few in town who listens to his heart and buys according to personal taste, and the shop reflects utterly that and just that. Away from mainstream highstreet and located at upcoming cool area, we talked about the ever evolving niche market and the current customer’s shopping habit. It was also nice to find out what’s moving in the first six months and looking forward – what’s coming in the 2nd half of 2009. Other than the ever sought-after unique assortment of candles and fragrances from Astier de Villatte, Heeley and Diptyque, the wool felt tote icon Carga, well fit Thomsen Paris shirt, Feiyue – plimsoll Chinoise de riguere  and Max & Unicorn anorexic wallet are all best sellers. Nevertheless, even the new items such as French classic Saint James Breton tees and Void watches are both selling like hotcakes.

Further to the above, I had the luck to get a preview on freshly unpacked arrivals of Saint James (I saw more COLOURS!) and Commune de Paris, 1871 (below). I can only expose a tiny bit more that Kapok will have more offers for girls for sure, and they’ll have a small selection from a NYC upcoming menswear designer this coming fall. Watch out.

povhl

  1. Illustrative blogging | Do you like Jean-Philippe Delhomme? Check his blog for an artist’s journey.
  2. That Balenciaga Jacket | I fully support Susannah Frankel’s strong defence on Ghesquière’s creativity.
  3. Schiaparelli Lives On | Like he did for Poiret, Alaïa hosted a Schiaaparelli auction preview  at his HQ, in which the selected few took a final glimpse before the sale, he even  bathed all of the looks in shocking pink lights. 
  4. 10yrs MJxJT | Up for grab also is a collective coffee table book of Marc Jacobs campaign. Published by Steidl, documented chronologically from the first campaign for spring/summer 1998 to the present day done by Juergen Teller.
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