Archive

Monthly Archives: June 2009

YSL1
Okay, just find it online. I don’t know. I don’t know. Apart from the long top drapey looks that do to me, the rest are rather Nino Cerruti and Armani from the 1980s. Is Stefano Pilati walking down his own career memory lane? Getting inspired by the essence of the masters he worked with? Do men want to look like that again? I don’t know, yet again. However, I noticed this kind of ambiguous feeling often occur towards Pilati’s YSL show, and I’d very likely digest gradually. And slowly but surely will accept and aware of its power later.  

The only thing I can give my both thumbs up this moment is the cast of model in the show.

YSL2

Starring 11 year old Jules Benchetrit. Directed by his father Samuel.

more about “YSL homme SS2010“, posted with vodpod

I’m not a film critique, therefore am not going to judge the film itself. However, it’d make perfect sense to put it in movie like “Paris Je’taime”, but putting it before a Saint Laurent presentation? I believe this is totally out of context, or in fact out of everything. Maybe someone can propose to YSL to produce a film collection in DVD namely “l’Homme de YSL. Je’taime” or “Edition Clips” when it reaches season 15th one day, and make it a long new wave soap opera. That was OPERA that Monsieur Saint Laurent liked, NOT soap opera!!!   

If for the sake of filming the clothes, it’s not doing the job. If for the sake of documenting, I assume we all want to see how Pilati working instead. It’s difficult to be out of the box all the time nowadays; but someone like Prada whom I still admire, manage to come up with new ideas from all angles constantly, be it on design, marketing, creativity etc. All without a hint of pretentiousness. 

Now, I want to see the clothes, but it’s NOT on any of the sites yet, as of 12.11p.m. HK time. I guess the film comes before the clothes- literally and symbolically, huh?

yslRISING SON: Stefano Pilati is still feeling cinematic. To present his spring/summer men’s wear collection for Yves Saint Laurent in Paris Wednesday night, he plans to screen a short film by Samuel Benchetrit, a French film director, actor – and the dashing other half of actress Anna Mouglalis. The house is mum on the plot, but the protagonist is Benchetrit’s 11-year-old son, Jules (and the fashion news will not be the launch of a children’s wear line.) Pilati also plans to stage a mini fashion show after the screening at YSL’s Rue d’Artois showrooms. Last season, Pilati featured a film by photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin that featured actor Michael Pitt. (*original text ‘n pic from WWD)

Hypocrite or pretentious? It could be a good film, but some people’s initial responses at forum are quite negative already, and the show is not even done, it’s hard to change the 1st impression:

“not another F**** movie zzzzzz”

“Great…another heinously pretentious film for YSL Homme…”

“I’m sorry but the idea of having an 11-year-old boy in the presentation for Yves Saint Laurent is just completely and utterly ridiculous. Children in high fashion can only work when it has an ironic twist i.e. Marc Jacobs/Dakota Fanning. But for Yves Saint-Laurent? Michael Pitt and the Inez/Vinoodh made sense. But a child? It’s just bizzare and to be honest, pretentious on Pilati’s behalf.”

Then, what is this all about? The 11-year-old Jules Benchetrit? I honestly miss his old catwalk shows. Okay, let’s do a reality check. We welcomed the 1st time at AW08 (fea. Simon Woods), then the response for the second time (fea. Jack Huston, SS09) was already ambiguous. Came this season, people slaughtered the pretentiousness of the clip (fea. Michael Pitt, AW09), told him to stick to his day job. I had my blind love to the brand and praised the provocative notion of it. But, what is he trying to prove? Taking the house into 21th century requires lots more than making a film, which would no doubt draw a lot of attention and make big noise, especially when you use an 11 year old boy.

... Of course there was the Hedi Slimane interregnum, but – much as Pilati loves what he does- Slimane’s focus on youth made that direction untenable for him.”When you’re young, you eat and you spit it out so nothing remains, and I didn’t want to focus my energy on something like that. I wanted to focus it on someone who could feel it.”     - <Fantastic Man#3 SS06 issue>

He said it loud at The NY Times’s interview last year that ‘a well-dressed man is someone you want to share an evening with, have a conversation. You don’t want to see him on the catwalk,’ then he put on a presentation in January after previewing the Pitt’s film to press, which was in fact better that way, but again he did exactly what he dislikes. Plus, if I recalled, he literally had a cast full of Slimane-esque boys in FW09, let alone using Ash Stymest and George Barnett, both are faves of Slimane. Furthermore, I don’t even need to bring up his comments on black fitting model and how great Naomi Campbell is, whom to him- “like the combo of Obama and Hilary Clinton”. 

I find it strange and annoying that Pilati tends to do exactly what he dissed or disliked about as recorded in press, and worse still probably thinks he himself would do better, why?! I can’t wait to see what Suzy Menkes and Cathy Horyn say after the film.

PRADA1

She remains the greateat in Milano, as always.

SS2010 menswear is pretty much done in Milano, I have to say Prada is the best, IMO. Garments are made in shades of grey. By layering familiar patterns that Prada male customers always go back to, coats are tailored in round shoulders, shirt with digital abstract patterns, blazer are held by 2-buttoned (either placed vertically or horizontally), and trousers that are cut razor sharp straight, last but not least, cardigan as always. Be it perforated or meshed, everything is done in Prada’s unique modern way. These are one of a kind sensibility of fashion (a word perhaps she doesn’t like). Friendly and wearable, yet still, never short of Prada’s subversive sexiness.

I love the change without OTT intellectual drama this time. It’s a shift. It’s an evolution. It shows a good balance between fashion and commerce. For some reasons, this show reminds me of Hedi Slimane’s YSL a little. Read what Suzy Menkes says.

PRADA2

Eyes_of_LMI talked about fashion movie earlier, but I missed this one out. If <Beautiful Fall> penned the decade of decadence, <Eyes of Laura Mars> has to be the one that captured and visualised it – at the time, in 1978. 

A lot of people consider <Bonnie & Clyde> or <The Thomas Crown Affair> as her iconic fashion movie, but to me, this is the one. A fashion thriller based on the eponymous novel. I was first recommended by my former editor boss five years ago who loaned me the DVD. It wasn’t so much about featuring designer clothes, but in fact the fashion, the 70s Studio 54 style and the specific photography that accentuated it. As Fred Astaire ‘n Audrey Hepburn’s <Funny Face> was about Richard Avedon in the 1950s; <EoLM> reflects Helmut Newton’s 1970s- the peak era of the master’s body of work. Although his work was featured in the film, but ironically the photos he contributed were not satisfactory. The director wanted scenes of blood and corpses which were of no interest to Helmut. He defended his fashion photos as erotic rather than violent. Barbra Streisand was the initial choice of the main role, she was dating Jon Peters, the producer of the movie then; but eventually decided not to take the role because of “the kinky nature of the story”. It would have made a huge difference if she did.

Until I get to see the real merchandise, I have a feeling this could be my wardrobe fix  (below) this coming winter. Balmain is so blah blah judging by the pix. What else, Raf? Yes, the bolero is so sick if it’s in fact in production and given the buyers in Hong Kong have enough guts, unlikely though. Lanvin? Nice, but not for me, I’m done with looking dapper years ago. Rick Owens is so copied, it lost its coolness slowly. Nicolas Andreas Taralis will be back at Joyce. New gent in town, Casely-Hayford is coming too. BTW, despite the improvement at their men’s dept, I can never shop at Lane Crawford because they never have my size. Can we at least get more size 46 skus, if not 44 (depending on the brand) in HK, buyers? The Dior Homme skinny boys are still alive, taking good care and staying in shape. They didn’t commit to suicide for the sake of Hedi Slimane’s departure, and I assume they are still shopping if the size is right.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Balenciaga FW09. *all pix from WWD.

petit bateauOn Thursday night, I had dinner appointment with a friend from Dolce e Gabbana at Harbour City (a shopping mall) in Tsim Sha Tsui. When he arrived at the basement, he wanted to take the chance to browse around the baby stores there because he’s looking for gift for a family friend’s new born baby boy, whose first-month banquet was going to take place last night. My friend didn’t want to shop from D&G kid as it’s too predictable, so I suggest to take a look at Petit Bateau right in front of us, which I had only found their existence earlier while waiting. We took a nosy round as I told my friend about the brand which he had no clue of. Then, I spot a cute little combo of classic Breton tee with navy bermuda like a French little boy’s outfit, we knew that’s the set to go as there’s nothing as cute and as French. However, my friend wanted to look at few more shops. Then we went to Comme Ça kid from Japan where they sell retard boring overall, sox and cardigan in box-set. The shop next to it sells Burberry and Chloé for label queen mums. Chloé is a no go as it’s for girls only and I won’t let him anyway, and detested there’re way too many plaids for a 1-month old’s neckline or elbow from Burberry. Therefore, we returned to Petit Bateau and bought the cute combo, in the hope of some early education on French style and taste. 

We had a good chat with the sales associate and found out the shop had opened since last November. Not only do they have clothes for kids, but also a rack or two for female adults, just like in Paris, Tokyo and the US. Sadly they only have tee and boxer for men. Other than the discovery of the Petit Bateau, the main point for this post is that – the whole experience couldn’t get any gayer. Really.

Petit Bateau | T: 852 3188 4051
Shop OT G52A, Gound Floor, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon

PPR fully supports Home Project.

The movie Home is Yann-Arthus Bertrand, (The Earth From Above), François-Henri Pinault (CEO of PPR) and Luc Besson’s (Elzevir Films and EuropaCorp.) first collaboration. The documentary film is a non profit project about major environmental and social challenges facing our world featuring aerial images filmed in over fifty countries around the world. All profits for the film will go towards Goodplanet.org.

François-Henri Pinault spoke to Wallpaper exclusively on the project. Already been screened at a private VIP event at the Stella McCartney West Hollywood store in Los Angeles on 5 June World Environment Day. Gucci Group’s stars CFAO, Gucci, YSL , Sergio Rossi, Puma, Alexander McQueen, Boucheron and La Redoute all took part and support at various way. All HQ and full screen. Other than Russian and Arabic, you can select by below language to watch the 90 min full length film on youtube now. I think they should have Mandarin version though, for many very useful, meaningful and educational reasons. Watch it before <Coco avant Chanel>, in case you come out from cinema and nag your boyfriend to buy your 23th 2.55 handbag.

Links to Home YouTube Channels:

English - youtube.com/homeproject | French - youtube.com/homeprojectfr  
German - youtube.com/homeprojectde | Spanish - youtube.com/homeprojectes

Date – 25 May 2009, Friday               Time – 13.00 to 15.30

Venue – Salon de Ning, The Peninsula Hong Kong

*****************************************************************************************************************

The opulent ambience was beautiful and exotic enough to set off perfectly for all the luxurious R.V. creations. Each piece speak for themselves with strikingly playful character. Bruno Frisoni, the creative director and ambassadress Inès de la Fressange made a personal appearance before heading to Taiwan. My conversation with Inès will be published at the upcoming Razor Red #8. We talked about her ups ‘n downs, recession, French dressing, the future of newcomers and of course, Roger Vivier.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Normally, I do my best not to nick or reuse other blogger’s or publication’s materials. I respect intellectual property. But when it comes down to things that I wanna talk about too, or people that I somehow know; then why not if it broadens the audience, gets people to know and support the minority names other than LVMH, Gucci and Prada?  

I come across this video shot by Diane Pernet of ASVOF randomly. Robin Schulié, chief buyer of Maria Luisa, shares his view on FW09. So, it’s all about Nina Ricci “one of the best show, most beautiful show I ever seen, pure Theyskens, everything I’d hav expected from him”; and he expected Balenciaga to be “pretty and chic”. And in London, Marios Schwab “was amazing”. Everyone else might be ambiguous about Christopher Kane, but he thinks his “dresses are so beautiful”. Plus his encouraging words on how to face recession as a retailer. If the designers are not playing safe, the retailers should second that, and neither should the customers; so everybody – pleeeaaaase KEEP SHOPPING!!! Below shown are Robin’s selections for Not Just A Label, original shown at Dazed Digital

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 95 other followers