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Daily Archives: June 25, 2009

balDesigning well for a storied house means respecting the past and forging into the future – a balancing act at which Nicolas Ghesquière excels. Referencing the architectural shapes of founding couturier Cristobal Balenciaga, he spun them forward into a collection that is sartorial, modern – and diverse. “The tailoring is graphic and construction compact,”Ghesquière said. Sharply cut jackets – some in thick linens – looked rich, as did an ottoman silk coat in pale green. Riffing on a subtle Japanese theme, there were high, kimono collars and gleaming metallic samurai sandals. There were also terrific screen-printed T-shirts and sturdy denim jeans and jackets. Although still in its infancy – men’s wear launched in 2004 – Balenciaga men’s wear is building towards a complete and more accessible wardrobe.   (*original text’n pix from WWD)

It might be young, but sure it’s getting stronger ‘n stronger, I like it. The above pix are my some of my personal choices. I just love the ever developing world of Balenciaga men, particularly on the tailoring pieces. The shoulders are precisely cut either in razor-sharp angular or roundly sculpted when the rest remains sleek and svelte. They are architectural and ‘well-built’. It gives the wearer a shape without looking like a filmsy twat. So chic and stylish. Above all, the collection grows bigger ‘n bigger. Some said it feels a bit Slimane-Dior Homme, why not? If my source is accurate, Balenciaga did hire a Slimane protégé, I guess that explains so much. See more below.

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YSL1
Okay, just find it online. I don’t know. I don’t know. Apart from the long top drapey looks that do to me, the rest are rather Nino Cerruti and Armani from the 1980s. Is Stefano Pilati walking down his own career memory lane? Getting inspired by the essence of the masters he worked with? Do men want to look like that again? I don’t know, yet again. However, I noticed this kind of ambiguous feeling often occur towards Pilati’s YSL show, and I’d very likely digest gradually. And slowly but surely will accept and aware of its power later.  

The only thing I can give my both thumbs up this moment is the cast of model in the show.

YSL2

Starring 11 year old Jules Benchetrit. Directed by his father Samuel.

more about “YSL homme SS2010“, posted with vodpod

I’m not a film critique, therefore am not going to judge the film itself. However, it’d make perfect sense to put it in movie like “Paris Je’taime”, but putting it before a Saint Laurent presentation? I believe this is totally out of context, or in fact out of everything. Maybe someone can propose to YSL to produce a film collection in DVD namely “l’Homme de YSL. Je’taime” or “Edition Clips” when it reaches season 15th one day, and make it a long new wave soap opera. That was OPERA that Monsieur Saint Laurent liked, NOT soap opera!!!   

If for the sake of filming the clothes, it’s not doing the job. If for the sake of documenting, I assume we all want to see how Pilati working instead. It’s difficult to be out of the box all the time nowadays; but someone like Prada whom I still admire, manage to come up with new ideas from all angles constantly, be it on design, marketing, creativity etc. All without a hint of pretentiousness. 

Now, I want to see the clothes, but it’s NOT on any of the sites yet, as of 12.11p.m. HK time. I guess the film comes before the clothes- literally and symbolically, huh?

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