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Monthly Archives: June 2009

When the economy downturn first hit the world last year, many thought it could/ will be a narrow escape for creativity to maybe grow a little again, a chance to nurture newcomers, when cleansing the dirts and bruises are also on hand missions etc. Proven by some recent events, I believe it’s taking effect already.

4xBLOGGING PROS | It’s easy to blame everything on recession, but looking back the last two weeks, we see changes. Normally, fashion lovers around the world observe the fashion week, be it men’s or women’s, from far by sitting in front of the computer, browsing online show by show, following tightly for the new creations. The ordinary sources are fashion websites such as style.com, catwalking, Coutorture and WWD etc. People and oohhs ‘n wows at home alone, react freely according to his/her own judgement and would express at their own little blogsphere platform. As time goes by, opinionated bloggers prove their status and attract followers, thus the reputation grew.

Remember how bloggers were dissed by professional media at one point about the lack of journalism training? By 2010 mens fashion week, we don’t only follow the common media sources for reportage, bloggers like 00o00 and Bryan Boy were invited to attend to shows in Milan. Big houses like Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana etc embrace and recognize their work. They appeared as a professional blogger or VIP guest maybe, I don’t know, but they exist and witness up-close and personal, and it’s beneficial to both parties.

*Elder* bloggers such as theSartorialist, JD, Jak&Jil or Susie Bubble have been going to shows for a while. However, the difference is fatal this time. You see 00o00 acted and was treated like a professional press, interviews were arranged, he posts pictures from backstage and front row direct from all angles in nanosecond; recording/reporting whatever triggers his interests – the job! When over there not faraway, Bryan Boy busied himself  like Andre Leon Tally, got interviewed by DG’s blogsite – ‘Swide‘, when rubbing shoulders with Christopher Bailey and Stefano Gabbana backstage. I mean you normally get this as journalists/press bloggers. Okay, BB is a celebrity, but my point is, brands are taking them seriously, they’re aware of the importance of blogsphere and make good use of it. We know they have less press from Asia Pacific this fashion week due to the budget cutting, why not explore the platform with no boundaries; maybe they’re desperate and take ‘em purely as marketing tacts, who knows? But it’s surely working 200% and mission has been completed.

Does the picture (on the right) represent an emerging creative force? You get a stylist, a fashion director, a celebrity/blogger and an aspiring designer there. Maybe it’s just the matter of time, all these could have happened anyway, but recession has pushed it forward.

5xPOWER GAME | The same applied to socialites.

When I read that Chanel will use five ‘It girls’ to become their beauty ambassadors, I first thought it’s such a cliché- until I see the list (right): Jen Brill, Poppy Delevigne, Vanessa Traina, Leigh Lezark and Caroline Sieber. These are the new glossy riches or/and hippest mid-town girls possible. They’re, to me, more new gen socialites than ‘It’ girls, which is actually a better term. I mean, when Chloë Sevigny has been ‘It’ for such long period of time, who else wants to be ‘It’ really? 

This group of socialites are high profile and well-/high-heeled. Most importantly, they’ve been looked up by fashion insiders. Their emergence formed within the last 3-4years, mainly in the States(except Mlle Delevigne). They’re transatlanticas with party-hopping lifetsyle that many people envy; not to forget their glossier wardrobe – loaned, given or purchased with their family’s old money or own wealth. Most crucially, they’re not stars. 

lsdLike many things fashion, it starts from small and unknown. Big brands like Chanel cannot use stylish editors due to the conflict of interests. But they quickly noticed in order to have the help or interests from fashionista/o, you’d need to know how to sell to them first. And most fashion connoisseurs do not buy marketing gimmicks created by pop idols like Lauren ConradWhitney Port, nor Blake Lively. They like real style, authentic taste, and better still, all archived effortlessly with personal brushstroke. 

These five girls are stylish ones, they make it to <Vogue> often and early. I learned about them before the aforementioned idols. Never lack of poise and grace, they’re naughtier, funkier, less serious, in a sense- approachable. To conclude, a far cry from their mother. Above all, they love fashion, and designers love’em back. Too bad if general public don’t know who they’re, but it doesn’t really matter, they’re pretty and real and good to look at anyway, a bit like the Gap ads; whereas I see Nicole Kidman a witchy looking red-carpet actress and just that. To Chanel, their ‘It’ rates would surely be cheaper than any actresses, plus they’d appreciate the deal and probably eager to be a Chanel girl once in a life time. I look forward to see the result, as the standard Chanel beauty ads are utterly boring. See if they could make it more interesting. 

‘It’ girls endorsement as marketing tools has been around for long time. Before British socialite Jemima Khan’s capsule collection, heiress Eugenie Niarchos helped put together accessories at Azzaro alongside in-house designer Vanessa Seward. Prior to that, Niarchos helped childhood friend Gaia Repossi (another heiress) to co-design the ‘Czarina’ collection for Monacan jeweler Repossi. And look not further, you have the latest editorial featuring U.S. < Vogue> regular and  leading socialites of all Lauren Santo Domingo (left) who models haute bijoux for <VogueParis> this issue. Would Chanel have this move anyway? Probably, but there’s an equal chance for them to use Audrey Tautou or Anna Mouglalis instead also, huh? 

sdlMISS MOVES: Sigrid de l’Epine — long associated with Balenciaga — is switching luxury camps and heading to Chanel. The leggy, lethally chic de l’Epine will be in charge of public relations for Chanel couture, a new post reporting to Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel’s fashion division. She starts this week. At Balenciaga, she had been responsible for public relations and patrimony. (*original text from WWD on 8 oct 08)

Check this clip. At first, I thought I’d mistaken her, but when looked carefully, it’s her. Sigrid de l’Epine, one of ‘those’ stylish Parisian women and the (ex) PR director at Balenciaga for years. Apparently she jumped ship to Chanel since October 08. It’s an old news, but still …

“Style is more about who the person is inside,” she told T magazine. Her get-ups are “chic with a twist, somewhere between strong and relaxed.” Having worked at Balenciaga from the start of Nicolas Ghesquière’s reign, she even named her son Cristobal. Now that’s keeping the faith. She was the patrimony for the house back then, and doing the same for Chanel couture now. Is that mean we’ll see the two houses sharing celebs like Amira Casar or Maggie Cheung? One of Balenciaga’s groupies Joana Preiss has already been to Chanel’s event recently. And if Kanye West can’t get into the Chanel couture show, you know why. BTW, has she nicknamed CoCo or Gab?


‘Anyone coming to this run-through except for me?’
Can’t wait. Don’t think we’ll have the opportunity to see this at cinema in Hong Kong. Let’s hope the DVD would come sooner than never. Did you notice the Nicolas Ghesquière portrait by the window?

New York’s fashion director Harriet Mays Powell sat down with Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, the youngest couturier in history (he’s 33) to talk about couture and his recent resort collection, which was based on Morocco and David Bowie. And couture, that decadently fabulous season (fall 2009 kicks off next week) is still going strong. “Women buy couture because it’s very exclusive,” he says. “When you sell a dress you can sell it once. So you are the only one person owning this dress in the entire world.” Check out the spring 2009 dress that took seamstresses two and a half weeks to sew by hand (and costs 18,000 euros). (*original text from The Cut, NY Mag)

Love what he does at Givenchy, but Tisci is most certainly NOT the youngest couturier in the history. Yves Saint Laurent was named chief designer/couturier at the age of 21 at Christian Dior. And McQueen also took over Givenchy at 27 too, so …

Anyway, at SS10 Givenchy podium show review on style.com, Tim Blanks started the article reviewing the original plans for Riccardo Tisci to design Michael Jackson’s upcoming O2 Centre tour. The icon found out about the Italian designer through the pieces of Givenchy’s womenswear he’d been wearing and was about to have a meeting on 29 Jun 09, which, of course, never took place in the end. MJ aside, English-Irish singer-songwriter Antony Hegarty of Antony and the Johnsons is another musician that Tisci has recently designed for. This made him to be the second ‘star’ project that Tisci has had after Madonna’s Sticky & Sweet’ tour.

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“FORGET TRENDY DESIGNER LABELS. JEANS, A SWEATER OR A T-SHIRT WORN UNDER A JACKET THAT
SEEMS WELDED TO YOU. WHEN IT’S JUST RIGHT, WHEN YOU DON’T SEE THE EFFORT, IT’S 
IRRESISTIBLE.”                     - Emmanuelle Alt | <Vogue Homme International> SS09

 

That kind of ‘effortless’ seems to be creeping on Balmain homme so far. The third collection for the brand, I guess we know where this is heading, or they want to head by now. French allure mix with a bit of roll ‘n rock and Americano? If you’re looking for real designs for what you pay for, this is not the place. This is more about bank breaking consumerism/commercialism instead of groundbreaking. 

At fashion forum, some commented: “Not conducive to a luxury house…” Or “This should go straight to Zara…” These are the kind of responses you get towards Balmain Homme. No doubt it’s lack of creativity to many, they consider this is to satisfy fashion victims even; but I think many brands are like this, they just want to moonlight menswear, dip it in lightheartedly, when focusing on women’s, (Viktor & Rolf for one). However, I must say the details are good, especially on the  tailoring category. It was covetable enough and I always have fun wearing. I mean, there’re lots of designer items that’d break the bank and look utterly plain in the market. This- at least make one look stylish, presumably.

It really depends on what you look for. Undoubtedly so, Emmanuelle Alt’s influence at Balmain (and Isabel Marant for that matter) is equally powerful as Carine Roitfeld’s to Tom Ford at Gucci back in the 90s. All I know is, not only the most popular posts are under the two words ”Balmain Homme” here in this site, but it has been the most searched terms for people to link in from search engines too. What does it indicate? Men are craving for it, curious about, and probably take it as a Dior Homme substitute, something that men can easily adapt to. 

Shop Balmain Homme AW09 online here or here.   (*all pix from WWD)

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GIVENCHY! Soooo stylish. OMG. If anyone can put me into a pair of sandals next summer, it’s gonna be him – Riccardo Tisci.

This is one of those either love it or hate it (i.e. Cathy Horyn) collection. How to handle male wardrobe stables: white shirt, black trousers, blazer and tee etc can be the make or break point for menswear designers. It’s very easy to do a good taste BCBG collection, and many do that end up producing really boring garment, that’s not Tisci’s case. He takes so much risk on pushing the concrete boundaries in menswear. He proves to us that one can be big-built but remain stylish and elegant at the same time. He wants you to know his ideal male image by introducing what he thinks is new for now and future, I mean, look at his influence on other runways in Milano last week! Aesthetically speaking, Tisci and Slimane couldn’t be more different, the latter was very much about eternal youth and skinny frame; whereas Tisci celebrates refine virility and bold masculinity. And yet, his design mentality is quite similar to the ex-Dior Homme designer. As the juicy coolness and modernism keep floating, they flirt with the rigid traditional French elegance, a burden that could weigh heavily on the shoulder of Maison de Givenchy. Moreover, they both challenge the male silhouette at their time and build a collection that stimulates exciting emotions – I want that, and I mean NOW. And like Slimane’s leather strips and darts, Tisci repeatedly put stars and studs in use and have now become his Givenchy domains. 

The clothes are not even made in France or Italy but in Portugal, the beefcake image is not even working on my body type, but I don’t care. It’s not at all about wanting to look like the models or the image projected, it’s all about the clothes.This is the power of creativity to me. This is a MOVEMENT-in-progress! 

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balDesigning well for a storied house means respecting the past and forging into the future – a balancing act at which Nicolas Ghesquière excels. Referencing the architectural shapes of founding couturier Cristobal Balenciaga, he spun them forward into a collection that is sartorial, modern – and diverse. “The tailoring is graphic and construction compact,”Ghesquière said. Sharply cut jackets – some in thick linens – looked rich, as did an ottoman silk coat in pale green. Riffing on a subtle Japanese theme, there were high, kimono collars and gleaming metallic samurai sandals. There were also terrific screen-printed T-shirts and sturdy denim jeans and jackets. Although still in its infancy – men’s wear launched in 2004 – Balenciaga men’s wear is building towards a complete and more accessible wardrobe.   (*original text’n pix from WWD)

It might be young, but sure it’s getting stronger ‘n stronger, I like it. The above pix are my some of my personal choices. I just love the ever developing world of Balenciaga men, particularly on the tailoring pieces. The shoulders are precisely cut either in razor-sharp angular or roundly sculpted when the rest remains sleek and svelte. They are architectural and ‘well-built’. It gives the wearer a shape without looking like a filmsy twat. So chic and stylish. Above all, the collection grows bigger ‘n bigger. Some said it feels a bit Slimane-Dior Homme, why not? If my source is accurate, Balenciaga did hire a Slimane protégé, I guess that explains so much. See more below.

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