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Monthly Archives: April 2009

Love him or hate him, I like his work at Purple, and getting to like his fuck you attitude. Funny that, I just told my friend to check this brand few days ago. Mr Olivier Zham of Purple Institutes shared his view on The Kooples, and posted this -

purple-diaryWE’D RATHER STAY SINGLE

We recently received the second issue of this THE KOOPLES magazine. The first one, we turned a blind eye but now it’s getting to be too much. In Berlin and New York, men have been developing personal style, but this brand single-handedly reveals the uninspiring emptiness in the predictable style of young French men today. For the first time in quite a while, there is a new, emerging nightlife scene that is gaining worldwide notoriety but this parasite brand has jumped on the bandwagon, commercially exploiting this new terrain in the worst possible way. The problem with the French boys’s look? It’s clean, brainless, too self-conscious and made to “please” girls. This irritating campaign forces us to realize how the “Frenchies” are so directly influenced and overloaded by fashion information that they can no longer make their own sartorial decisions without looking like fake New Yorkers or quite simply taken right out of a THE KOOPLES advertisement. Guys — it could be more interesting to rediscover AGNES B! Or just stick with A.P.C.! Text and photo Olivier Zahm [source]

Votre attention s’il vous plait. When you have something to say, say it loud. Scream if you like. Bold the words with CAPITAL letters. That’s exactly what Olivier Zham did. Again, is it something only French could do? To whine about your peers?

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  1. Economic tsunami? Financial hurricane? What recession?! Supported by his dream team and growing fanfare, US based designer Phillip Lim is having none of it. Wen Zhou, CEO of 3.1 Phillip Lim revealed the ups – and ups. Joyce Hong Kong will be opening a flagship for him this coming August.
  2. “I do think [it’s] not a bad time to do it. What if all the stores that carry me are going to have a hard time of it? It’s in a way a good investment. Since I decided to keep going with this design thing anyway, I might as well do some stores. I might as well invest in it.” Rick Owens explains his expansion in London.
  3. MObama vs Carkozy’s aftermath. A conclusion by the pros: Oscar de la Renta thinks “there are a lot of great designers out there. I think it’s wrong to go in one direction only.” And he’s not referring to Carkozy. “You don’t go to Buckingham Palace in a sweater (Alaïa’s).” Mr Alaïa hisses back “It’s not up to him to give her lessons; Michelle Obama is of her time; Oscar de la Renta is no longer.” Make ways, Lagerfeld.
  4. Christopher Kane is launching an unisex tee shirt line featuring the gorilla, the chimp, the mandrille and the baboon in silk-jersey. Can’t wait! Should we call  this an evolution of Balenciaga’s jungle tee par Kane?

As one of the most overly-developed parfum branches, Yves Saint Laurent parfum has recently launched two new reinforcements from existing fragrances: L’Homme and Elle. The former has now extended to an evening note ‘La Nuit de L’Homme’; and the latter, namely ‘Elle Shocking’, which presumably has turned into a stronger eau de toilette.

la nuit de l'hommeLa Nuit de L’Homme | Formerly fronted by Olivier Martinez, YSL parfum tends to get French male star to front their parfum campaign, do they really sell better? Never a big fan of Vicent Cassel, don’t think his *masculinity* represent the Saint Laurent male image (past and present) well either, but maybe he’s an ultimate heartthrob/icon to French, I don’t know. Guess they are targeting the European market more than the rest of the world. Under the lens of Mert & Marcus, Cassel’s appearance is expectedly dark and evil but not mysterious, rather the bad guy than James Bond like, flanked by formidable accessories: Jourdan and Danijela, their presence, I think, helped tremendously. (TVC)

elle shockingElle Shocking | Taking over from CoCo Rocha, model du jour Anna Selezneva does a better job to my liking. Shot by Terry Richardson, Selezneva, who once impersonated Carine Roitfeld at [VogueParis], is undoubtably darker, sexier and sultrier than sunshine girl-next-door Rocha’s previous heavily make-up image; as the green apple persona never quite fit the house of Saint Laurent. IMO, this visual is quite modern to the house’s standard due to the Emmanuelle Alt/VogueParis-esuqe spirit. (TVC)

Both featured in the classic le Smoking, addressing hints of evening function. Both parfum bottles are placed on the right bottom side, which is almost a Saint Laurent parfum tradition. Below shown are some iconic images from the archive. They are strong, artistic, iconic, and commercially powerful all at the same time.

I was just thinking about their arrival two days ago, and here they are now in Hong Kong finally!

00400mbreton2From my work experience, boatneck doesn’t really attract to local people, some find them gay, other just think of ‘em too 80s, I for one was skeptical about the neckline too. However, after owning a Stefano Pilati designed YSL boatneck tee few years back, I changed my mind. The reason why Breton tee/sweater is formidable in fashion people’s wardrobe is because of the Frenchness and the classic design, the tee to French is like the khaki pants or chino to Americans. It has left its mark in fashion arena, take FW09, Balmain’s Christophe Decarnin did a sparkle sequined version (left), and Gaultier (right) who ritually makes use of the item and takes it his own, apart from revisiting on seasonal basis, he used it in campaign, parfum ”Le Mâle”, or on Evian bottle even. It’s like a piece of cake for French brands to make Breton, agnès b and A.P.C. have their take too.

bretonOne of the most sought-after fashion souls- Emmanuelle Alt (left), Fashion Director of Vogue Paris, who regularly uses designers’ variation at her fashion editorial shootings to enhance the Frenchness.

From my experience and observation, alongside basic black, white and grey tees, Breton tee is up there with the distressed rock tees, de rigueur in any given fashion wardrobe. They don’t have to be designer or branded products, as IMO, you wear them to parts and often buy a new one every 1-2 seasons. I’ve tried many cotton version before, Muji, Uniqlo… etc, but I haven’t been able to find the right one, either the stripy colour comes off slightly on the white or they look old after a few wash. As I like to support originality, the French’s go-to answer will be mine too.

Kapok | G/F., 5 St Francis Yard, Wan Chai, Hong Kong | 852-2549 9254

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Get it when its hot. The brand new summer issue of Razor Red is now out in a new size. The HK born magazine is, as usual, placed dominantly alongside the international peers. With [Object of Desire] as subject, Razor Red cooperates with some cool names like the House of Chanel, Nicolas Andreas Taralis, Charlie Casely-Hayford, Juun J., Rick Owens, Henrik Vibskov… etc etc; each shared their ultimate object and explain why.

RAZOR | RED
Razor Red is an English quarterly fashion, art and design magazine based in Hong Kong, and also distributed in Macau, China and NYC. The magazine’s desire to help shaping a channel of communication where ideas meet and exchange; an exploratory gallery where concepts are challenged and expressed; a forum where a wide spectrum of experts come together to combine their vision with passion. With its network of international correspondences. Razor Red aims to present to its readers the latest and most exciting news, discovering and highlighting talents from all over the world, aspires to broaden social awareness by exposing and investigating significant global projects/issues that are seldom addressed by fashion glossies.

Apart from features on exhibition and photography, they spoke to Bruno Frisoni of Roger Vivier in Paris. Taken as a summer issue, hereunder are some shots for your eyes only.

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victoria-beckham-tie-dye-010401enew26b11Couldn’t resist to post this any longer, just wanna show the world how stars in Hong Kong wear Balmain. This is literally too 80s, far and beyond from stylish. On left picture, Brigitte Lin (right) who paired the jacket with black silky trousers that instantly turned the outfit into Saint Laurent Smoking, I don’t know if it’s smart or not; whereas Carina Lau (far left) who’s in head-to-toe, should have a modern shaggy hairdo instead, IMO. The main flaw on both is the attitude that’s so wrong. Another example from Posh who wears it well. YES, I think she does for a celeb – ideally without the bag though.

FRANCE-GERMANY-NATO-SUMMIT-DEFENCE-SPOUSES

MObama wore an Etro print top, Moschino white shirt, and Gunex black pants, with a tailored Alaïa jacket. Carla Bruni wore a Dior by John Galliano ensemble yet again, in violet, with a Chanel handbag. Fashion is by no mean for politics, but by combining native American gears from Michael Kors and Asian American designers like Jason Wu and Thakoon to go with European classics, MObama embraces the unity of the world and celebrate fashion without boundaries. Carkozy was not badly dressed either, but maybe she can mix in some other French brands too, if not overseas’.

(pic: Round 3 finale | First Ladies pose as they visit a museum in Strasbourg, eastern France on April 4, 2009.)

Round 2: little black dress | The Obamas and Sarkozys arrived at the opening of the NATO summit in Baden-Baden, Germany.

Alaïa vs Dior, who wins? So far, I think this is the first outing for MObama to wear a full Alaïa number, except the overexposed belt and the cardigan worn to see the Queen and Prince Philip at London’s Buckingham Palace on April 1. Apparently, Alaïa told Cathy Horyn that he saw pictures of Mrs. Obama in the dress on the Internet. Check here for her European wardrobe so far and Cathy Horyn’s view.

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