STYLEPOV

Is it just the culture or era we’re in or are we really in a rush?

Seems like everyone is now dissing Balmain and can’t wait for it to fade out. Reading through the response on Jak & Jil, some people love it still, and others start to get hostile and think it’s ridiculous to wear something so over-the-top or statement making. ‘Reality check’ came into play.

Personally, I think Balmain is fun to wear as a fashion piece, seasonal or not we do need fashion pieces in our wardrobe once in a while. Despite the economic downturn, I mean, when was the last time when people have this drive/crave for a piece/brand? Coincidentally, I’ve been working on magazine clearance lately, and all the mags over 10 years or more bring back so much memories. Balmain has the force, I think, similar to Tom Ford’s Gucci era, in which you wanna be that Gucci woman then (i.e. sub-Carine Roitfeld); or Hedi Slimane’s Dior Homme in men’s case. Balmain is intriguing and it’s a force that Tom and Hedi once created, both had their tipping point: Tom’s was FW05, and Hedi’s was FW00, the first season at Dior Homme. And those tipping points make a brand – revamp with success.

We know Christophe Decarnin got a lot of sticks for his FW09 collection from editors who have doubts in his creativity, wonder if he’s got any left in his sleeves (or shoulder), they kindly warned for changes next season. I just think he’s pushed the envelope so far in SS09 that people’s expectation has gone through the roof. Because IMO, I recall both his FW07 and SS08 collection were much more alike. Both had feathers, fringes, blings and bell bottoms, when the hippy chick image were evolving; and the FW08 was too much like French counterpart of Alexander Wang.

Last thing he’d do is to jump from one thing to another between 1-2 seasons, he really has to stick to his guns and evolves gradually. IMO, ignore all the sticks, ‘cos there’s no better time to reset the fashion system’s nano-speeding than now. It’s time for us to appreciate style again. As for the shoulder, M. Yves Saint Laurent had the famous Saint Laurent shoulder, and so did Chanel, or Margiela in this case. To be fair, from tennis ball to pagoda, if Decarnin wants to keep working on it and make it an iconic category in the house, why not? Furthermore, don’t say the ‘lack of Balmain reference’ bullshit, what he does now is like the only way out, if he is to build a modern house style/image, digging into archive is no good, because the last thing we want now is vintage. I mean Riccardo Tisci and Alber Elbaz didn’t give us vintage Givenchy or vintage Lanvin, an example – all you need to do is to look at what Galliano does at Dior, then you know what I mean.

Needless to say, supports from fashion cheerleaders Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld and daughter, Barbara Martelo, Anna Dello Russo are added hip value required in today’s fashion, but aren’t we all shocked when Michael Jackson the muse himself came out to play a part wearing a ladies’ crystal encrusted zebra T-shirt. Fanfare among Gwyneth Paltrow, Kate Moss, Jennifer Connelly, Diane Kruger, Victoria Beckham, Beyoncé and Rihanna are phenomenal. I give Rihanna both thumbs down though, she reminds me of the disastrous feeling when found David Furnish share my love to Dior Homme years ago. She’s to me the Yoko Ono of our days – fashion killer, like Carina Lau in HK.

I think other than the hipness and coolness that Balmain continuously carries, especially with the jackets, one other great thing about Decarnin’s approach is that he’s building a style and leads people (both sexes) to grow interest in ready-to-wear again, not with bags, which is very veRY VERY important! It’s okay if he wants to make Balmain famous for jackets and evening, non? To me, the approach is like what Stella McCartney did at Chloé, but cooler, much cooler …