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Daily Archives: April 25, 2009

Is it just the culture or era we’re in or are we really in a rush?

Seems like everyone is now dissing Balmain and can’t wait for it to fade out. Reading through the response on Jak & Jil, some people love it still, and others start to get hostile and think it’s ridiculous to wear something so over-the-top or statement making. ‘Reality check’ came into play.

Personally, I think Balmain is fun to wear as a fashion piece, seasonal or not we do need fashion pieces in our wardrobe once in a while. Despite the economic downturn, I mean, when was the last time when people have this drive/crave for a piece/brand? Coincidentally, I’ve been working on magazine clearance lately, and all the mags over 10 years or more bring back so much memories. Balmain has the force, I think, similar to Tom Ford’s Gucci era, in which you wanna be that Gucci woman then (i.e. sub-Carine Roitfeld); or Hedi Slimane’s Dior Homme in men’s case. Balmain is intriguing and it’s a force that Tom and Hedi once created, both had their tipping point: Tom’s was FW05, and Hedi’s was FW00, the first season at Dior Homme. And those tipping points make a brand – revamp with success.

We know Christophe Decarnin got a lot of sticks for his FW09 collection from editors who have doubts in his creativity, wonder if he’s got any left in his sleeves (or shoulder), they kindly warned for changes next season. I just think he’s pushed the envelope so far in SS09 that people’s expectation has gone through the roof. Because IMO, I recall both his FW07 and SS08 collection were much more alike. Both had feathers, fringes, blings and bell bottoms, when the hippy chick image were evolving; and the FW08 was too much like French counterpart of Alexander Wang.

Last thing he’d do is to jump from one thing to another between 1-2 seasons, he really has to stick to his guns and evolves gradually. IMO, ignore all the sticks, ‘cos there’s no better time to reset the fashion system’s nano-speeding than now. It’s time for us to appreciate style again. As for the shoulder, M. Yves Saint Laurent had the famous Saint Laurent shoulder, and so did Chanel, or Margiela in this case. To be fair, from tennis ball to pagoda, if Decarnin wants to keep working on it and make it an iconic category in the house, why not? Furthermore, don’t say the ‘lack of Balmain reference’ bullshit, what he does now is like the only way out, if he is to build a modern house style/image, digging into archive is no good, because the last thing we want now is vintage. I mean Riccardo Tisci and Alber Elbaz didn’t give us vintage Givenchy or vintage Lanvin, an example – all you need to do is to look at what Galliano does at Dior, then you know what I mean.

Needless to say, supports from fashion cheerleaders Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld and daughter, Barbara Martelo, Anna Dello Russo are added hip value required in today’s fashion, but aren’t we all shocked when Michael Jackson the muse himself came out to play a part wearing a ladies’ crystal encrusted zebra T-shirt. Fanfare among Gwyneth PaltrowKate MossJennifer ConnellyDiane KrugerVictoria BeckhamBeyoncé and Rihanna are phenomenal. I give Rihanna both thumbs down though, she reminds me of the disastrous feeling when found David Furnish share my love to Dior Homme years ago. She’s to me the Yoko Ono of our days – fashion killer, like Carina Lau in HK.

I think other than the hipness and coolness that Balmain continuously carries, especially with the jackets, one other great thing about Decarnin’s approach is that he’s building a style and leads people (both sexes) to grow interest in ready-to-wear again, not with bags, which is very veRY VERY important! It’s okay if he wants to make Balmain famous for jackets and evening, non? To me, the approach is like what Stella McCartney did at Chloé, but cooler, much cooler …

“Bring me Isaac.” commanded Miranda Priestley. As we’re all anticipating the FW09 ad. campaign list, I almost forgot to mention one of the best campaigns I’m fond of this season, the SS09 Liz Claiborne campaign. This is Isaac Mizrahi‘s first season for the brand and I think it’s great, and his cheerful spirit really expresses through the vibrant image. It’s all upbeat and optimistic, busy and eclectic but not over-crowded. The colours pop without blinding your eyes when pieces look clearly and deliciously - chic and functional to any given city girls or first lady for that matter, utterly New York. You see more styling from Liz Claiborne‘s website which is interactive and sensible without disturbing flashy layout. Everything is friendly and approachable, and human, simply great.

The campaign in fact reminds me of a dinner gathering I had when tsunami’s influence first hit HK 6-7 months ago. It was on a Saturday evening, few of my VM friends were late, by the time they came, they all look tired, exhausted and upset. In order to catch the weekend business, they were told by urgency order to transform the entire store floor from the stylish black/white tone to a perkier colour palette at key stores all in one day, that included clothes on rack and on mannequins. Such gesture, without a doubt, was aiming to ooze feel good factors and stimulate shopping impulse. Funny that I went to a shop across the road before that dinner, and the clothes were dark, washed and distressed, totally couldn’t imagine who’d like to touch them then, not me for sure, all I knew was couldn’t wait to get out of that place; so when they told us about the hectic day, I feel for them but it was necessary though. For sure.

Checked Isaac Mizrahi‘s own website as well, it’s as fun as one can get. Apparently he would have reality show about ‘The Fashion Show’ which will premier on Bravo TV on 7th May. But before that, if you like The City, check out the ‘Watch Isaac’ section, ‘Making the Collection’, and ‘Yesterday@475 video’. These are what you’d expect from the big Papa of reality show.

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Ahead of the gang: Kate Moss in Balmain FW08 exit 8

It isn’t something strange for Kate Moss to wear Balmain, she wears it often and well; but since gals like Beyoncé, Rihanna and Victoria Beckham made recent headlines for wearing the SS09 pieces, I thought la Moss should be credited for wearing it the earliest (as shown). Ahead of anybody else, she showed up at Shaun Leane’s White Light launch in London the other night in Balmain’s FW09 exit 8. Check below for more pix.

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