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Monthly Archives: April 2009

Is it just the culture or era we’re in or are we really in a rush?

Seems like everyone is now dissing Balmain and can’t wait for it to fade out. Reading through the response on Jak & Jil, some people love it still, and others start to get hostile and think it’s ridiculous to wear something so over-the-top or statement making. ‘Reality check’ came into play.

Personally, I think Balmain is fun to wear as a fashion piece, seasonal or not we do need fashion pieces in our wardrobe once in a while. Despite the economic downturn, I mean, when was the last time when people have this drive/crave for a piece/brand? Coincidentally, I’ve been working on magazine clearance lately, and all the mags over 10 years or more bring back so much memories. Balmain has the force, I think, similar to Tom Ford’s Gucci era, in which you wanna be that Gucci woman then (i.e. sub-Carine Roitfeld); or Hedi Slimane’s Dior Homme in men’s case. Balmain is intriguing and it’s a force that Tom and Hedi once created, both had their tipping point: Tom’s was FW05, and Hedi’s was FW00, the first season at Dior Homme. And those tipping points make a brand – revamp with success.

We know Christophe Decarnin got a lot of sticks for his FW09 collection from editors who have doubts in his creativity, wonder if he’s got any left in his sleeves (or shoulder), they kindly warned for changes next season. I just think he’s pushed the envelope so far in SS09 that people’s expectation has gone through the roof. Because IMO, I recall both his FW07 and SS08 collection were much more alike. Both had feathers, fringes, blings and bell bottoms, when the hippy chick image were evolving; and the FW08 was too much like French counterpart of Alexander Wang.

Last thing he’d do is to jump from one thing to another between 1-2 seasons, he really has to stick to his guns and evolves gradually. IMO, ignore all the sticks, ‘cos there’s no better time to reset the fashion system’s nano-speeding than now. It’s time for us to appreciate style again. As for the shoulder, M. Yves Saint Laurent had the famous Saint Laurent shoulder, and so did Chanel, or Margiela in this case. To be fair, from tennis ball to pagoda, if Decarnin wants to keep working on it and make it an iconic category in the house, why not? Furthermore, don’t say the ‘lack of Balmain reference’ bullshit, what he does now is like the only way out, if he is to build a modern house style/image, digging into archive is no good, because the last thing we want now is vintage. I mean Riccardo Tisci and Alber Elbaz didn’t give us vintage Givenchy or vintage Lanvin, an example – all you need to do is to look at what Galliano does at Dior, then you know what I mean.

Needless to say, supports from fashion cheerleaders Emmanuelle Alt, Carine Roitfeld and daughter, Barbara Martelo, Anna Dello Russo are added hip value required in today’s fashion, but aren’t we all shocked when Michael Jackson the muse himself came out to play a part wearing a ladies’ crystal encrusted zebra T-shirt. Fanfare among Gwyneth PaltrowKate MossJennifer ConnellyDiane KrugerVictoria BeckhamBeyoncé and Rihanna are phenomenal. I give Rihanna both thumbs down though, she reminds me of the disastrous feeling when found David Furnish share my love to Dior Homme years ago. She’s to me the Yoko Ono of our days – fashion killer, like Carina Lau in HK.

I think other than the hipness and coolness that Balmain continuously carries, especially with the jackets, one other great thing about Decarnin’s approach is that he’s building a style and leads people (both sexes) to grow interest in ready-to-wear again, not with bags, which is very veRY VERY important! It’s okay if he wants to make Balmain famous for jackets and evening, non? To me, the approach is like what Stella McCartney did at Chloé, but cooler, much cooler …

“Bring me Isaac.” commanded Miranda Priestley. As we’re all anticipating the FW09 ad. campaign list, I almost forgot to mention one of the best campaigns I’m fond of this season, the SS09 Liz Claiborne campaign. This is Isaac Mizrahi‘s first season for the brand and I think it’s great, and his cheerful spirit really expresses through the vibrant image. It’s all upbeat and optimistic, busy and eclectic but not over-crowded. The colours pop without blinding your eyes when pieces look clearly and deliciously - chic and functional to any given city girls or first lady for that matter, utterly New York. You see more styling from Liz Claiborne‘s website which is interactive and sensible without disturbing flashy layout. Everything is friendly and approachable, and human, simply great.

The campaign in fact reminds me of a dinner gathering I had when tsunami’s influence first hit HK 6-7 months ago. It was on a Saturday evening, few of my VM friends were late, by the time they came, they all look tired, exhausted and upset. In order to catch the weekend business, they were told by urgency order to transform the entire store floor from the stylish black/white tone to a perkier colour palette at key stores all in one day, that included clothes on rack and on mannequins. Such gesture, without a doubt, was aiming to ooze feel good factors and stimulate shopping impulse. Funny that I went to a shop across the road before that dinner, and the clothes were dark, washed and distressed, totally couldn’t imagine who’d like to touch them then, not me for sure, all I knew was couldn’t wait to get out of that place; so when they told us about the hectic day, I feel for them but it was necessary though. For sure.

Checked Isaac Mizrahi‘s own website as well, it’s as fun as one can get. Apparently he would have reality show about ‘The Fashion Show’ which will premier on Bravo TV on 7th May. But before that, if you like The City, check out the ‘Watch Isaac’ section, ‘Making the Collection’, and ‘Yesterday@475 video’. These are what you’d expect from the big Papa of reality show.

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Ahead of the gang: Kate Moss in Balmain FW08 exit 8

It isn’t something strange for Kate Moss to wear Balmain, she wears it often and well; but since gals like Beyoncé, Rihanna and Victoria Beckham made recent headlines for wearing the SS09 pieces, I thought la Moss should be credited for wearing it the earliest (as shown). Ahead of anybody else, she showed up at Shaun Leane’s White Light launch in London the other night in Balmain’s FW09 exit 8. Check below for more pix.

There might be a cut, but there’s no internal hemorrhaging, yet.  VogueParis.com claimed this as the first leather goods for Nina Ricci, but I recall vividly they used to have various products from handbag to SLG, and my mum bought a hat box even.

ninaricci_sacbleuDespite Olivier Theyskens’ seat is still warm and ignoring Anna Wintour’s voice out disapproval,  Nina Ricci wastes no time (or has no time to waste?) and decide to revamp the brand in desperate urgency by pushing hard on leather goods and accessories. The house first launched 10pcs of limited edition blue tote sell exclusively to Dover Street Market which, needless to say, was aim to  gain touches of coolness chez DSM.

Nina RicciI couldn’t help but feel NIna Ricci will become the direct competitor to Azzaro, but so far, without the presence of creative designer (C.D.), Nina Ricci has already started building the elegant Parisian image here which IMO is fitting to the house. Composed by 4 models and will grow throughout the season. A collection of tote bag, a hobo, a kit bag and a small number is born. All characterized by twisted emblematic to echo horseshoe, they are available in different colors and luxurious skins: lamb skin, pony, calf and alligator. The collection will be available in May at Nina Ricci store.

However, do these bags mean anything? We all know many C.D.s don’t really *design* the bags and accessories, but the question is- can bags sell without that Mida’s touch of the soul of a recovering brand? Clearly they don’t mind to let people know these are done by designing team. I mean, they can’t claim these’re actually Peter Copping‘s creations after the official announcement?  Are they gonna do the post-Tom Ford/Gucci trick and have 3 designers to handle 3cates: WRTW, MRTW and accessories? Also, I really wonder if bags and accessories are the only way out to *revive* a house like Nina Ricci or Valentino for that matter? ‘Cos I DO NOT think so, this is what killed someone like Lacroix’s biz. Tell me there’s absolutely no hope for prêt-à-porter to come back as the dominant role in a fashion brand like what Tom Ford did for Gucci over 10 years ago. How disappointing is that! God, I miss Helmut Lang.

As taste evolves and knowledge grows, my interests and approach towards fashion shifted. Foreign magazines have played an important role in my passion to fashion, I have my tab at the store, and money spent on the mags are counted by thousands, I guess that’s what fashion lovers pay for even before the actual clothes. At one point, almost each and every key fashion magazine has something to know and to keep, big title monthlies and cool avant garde ones were equally important. It lingered for about ten years. However, key editors come and go, fashion and magazine quality changes, and so have my mindset. I stopped buying UK Vogue last year, and US Bazaar the year before, and now decided to go through all the old issues and clip, trust me it’s a daunting job. My way of doing it is to filter through, keep only the important editorial accounted by quality, photographer and models, the special features and designer interviews, as well as some iconic campaigns.

During which confirmed my decision was a right one, because when reading the dated news, old teasers, seeing product shots, hard sell promotions… etc etc, things that no longer mean anything today bore me. Women magazines like UK Vogue and US Bazaar(under Glenda Bailey’s editorship) are just about pure commercialism, rather naff actually. The former tries hard to sell the local women by approaching real women in their 30s+ in features; but I give credit for their amazing editorial shoots that I’d clip; whereas Bazaar uses Hollywood stars and aged socialites to sell products. They just don’t speak to me as neither am I a woman nor look up to those people. Features like little black dress vs le Smonking has got nothing to do with me nor my aesthetic, I read it though because it was Amanda Lady Harlech vs Betty Catroux.

Vogue Paris, first issue published on June 15, 1920.

Vogue Paris, first issue published on June 15, 1920. Although not in order and not complete, it's a joy still to see the French oldies. FYI, not my collection.

Furthermore, I can now read them online anyway. Some nice people scan the key features and editorial and share with others. Now, my must-buy are US Vogue (which I grow up with), Vogue Paris (which I’m fond of in recently years) and the bi-annual Purple and Self Service – the magazines that sell fashion as STYLE.

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