Monthly Archives: January 2009

'A well-dressed man is someone you want to share an evening with, have a conversation … You don’t want to see him on the catwalk.' - said Pilati.

As he doesn’t like seeing male models on the runway, but there’s one show as well as another short film at YSL men again. As I’m eagerly waiting for the collection to come out, the house announced the face first. Stefano Pilati selected American actor Michael Pitt to express his Yves Saint Laurent FW 09/10 . Following the footstep of Simon Wood and Jack Houston, Pitt, the actor of <The Dreamers> will be under the lens of partner-photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. Can’t wait!

New Venture with 212DRESSINGROOM

January 18, 2009

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As men’s fashion week has just kick-started in Milano, I’m thrilled to receive the invitation of 212DRESSINGROOM NYC and becoming their team blogger on covering the FW09 shows. So, dear all, please keep an eye on yours truly’s viewpoints and perspective on the latest menswear. I won’t be talking about them here but there instead … Stay tune.

POV headlines | Thom, Oscar, Felipe, new home & the ever-lasting R-word

January 18, 2009

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Thom Browne went Vanessa Beecroft in Firenze.
Paris’ recession state of mind and the vulgar game.
The in-law CEO talks about the company and the in-law Oscar de la Renta, as well as a 100,000 deal online.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista interview and 1st handbag collection exposed.
Facelift – Colette‘s brand new layout. New arrival with lots of American designer items available in the men’s department.
Visit the home of tastemaker Jacques Grange, Yves Saint Laurent’s one time interior designer.

Hedi Slimane chez Saint Laurent

January 18, 2009

people, vogueparis, yves saint laurent

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28779_00030_095 Last glimpse from Hedi Slimane.

We all know Pierre Bergé, companion of Yves Saint Laurent remains closed to his choice for Saint Laurent, both Slimane and Alber Elbaz are friend of the Saint Laurent clique. Last November, Bergé opened the doors of his residence at Rue de Babylone to Hedi Slimane. The former creator of the house, now fulltime photographer took photographs for VogueParis and published in the latest issue (with Lara Stone cover) and 61 of them at his own blog. Always black & white – the signature of Slimane, which echos a certain timelessness of the master. This Parisian apartment is no doubt a museum dedicated to the great master. Personal belongings and sketches etc all became the targets of Slimane’s shutter, which also caught Pierre Bergé discreet and sensitive, Moujik the dog, YSL’s mood board, and the formidable art objects. The well-acclaimed art collection will be auctioned in February to benefit their foundation and research against AIDS. See more potos at Hedi Slimane’s fashion diary .

Maggie Cheung for Qeelin again?

January 16, 2009

accessories, people

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Maggie Cheung models Qeelin’s ‘Wulu’

Don’t know if you know of Qeelin, a Paris-based, Chinese objects inspired haute jewelery brand from Hong Kong. Co-founded by Dennis Chan and Frenchman Guillaume Brochard, the Franco-Chino brand takes oriental elements and traditional objects as designs. The team made quite a success few years ago with their first ever collection ‘Wulu’, which was literally copied all over in the Asia region. One cannot deny the success then was partially due to the choice of the spokesperson Maggie Cheung whom Brochard was going out with at the time. She was the face then and blatantly wore the piece to the Cannes Festival that year which gave the ‘Wulu’ collection a very good start. The two hit it off before Qeelin when Brochard was at still Ebel and Cheung was a guest/ friend of the brand. Later, they broke up and Qeelin hired Du Juan on promotion instead.

Now, I feel like a Gossip Boy here.
I saw Cheung, portfolio-holding Dennis and business-looking Brochard at the lobby cafe at Four Seasons Hotel last night at 11.30-ish. Cheung, the actress/ fashion icon in Asia (it’s been so overused, but I mean it here), was ever so stylishly, wearing long knit, skirt, tight and heels, topped with a green down blouson and was in sunglasses (yes, indoor and at night). I think the trio has something going on again. Was that just a rendez-vous? Is she gonna get involved in the next design? Since Du Juan is now the face of David Yurman, will Cheung rejoin as the brand’s image girl again? No doubt for sure, the actress will sell more with her fame, but I wonder though, because she’s currently the face of Piaget also … oh well well, I’ll find out and keep you posted. One thing certain is that there is something going on there. Here‘s a rare clip of hers in Chanel and fluent French.

xoxo
Gossip Boy

Rendez-Vous Homme | Paris

January 14, 2009

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rvp I sometimes forget about men’s fashion week, only to remember it like 2 days after, cos I don’t really care about the Milano shows except Prada. But since I have a sacre task this season, I’ll pull myself together and pay attention to the opening date. When we’re all focusing on the big houses, let’s remind each other to nurture the newbies, they need us the most in time like this. Show your support.

Do you know my Gigli?

January 14, 2009

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Before Dries, there was Gigli (got the picture?)…

After reading Suzy Menkes’ article last November, I thought we’d have to wait till later to see the men’s collection and the women’s in March, but apparently not, he already did one collection for SS09. I’m talking about Romeo Gigli’s new line Io Ipse Idem. Do you know Gigli? I miss Gigli. He’s one of the designers who had a shop situated at Kowloon Hotel’s basement, among Miyake and others, all run by the World of Joyce in my aspiring years (sigh! nostalgia…). Oh dear, well, let’s say when I was younger and not more beautiful. Anyway, someone nice enough to post the SS09 collection on flickr, I think Bottega Veneta should watch out. For more, you can take a look at the beautiful and ever so poetic official website. According to WWD – “Io’s fall 2009 men’s and women’s offerings will debut in Paris in January and March, respectively, but Gigli plans to skip a runway show in favor of an interactive presentation. The designer is no newcomer to the City of Light, where he first showed his namesake line two decades ago.

To test the market, this past June, Gigli created trial Io Ipse Idem collections for men and women of about 100 pieces each. He says it allowed him to fine-tune his design ethos, to better familiarize himself with his new partners and get feedback from international retailers. The collections were never sold.”

I love all the veterans like Gigli, Lacroix, Alaia, Rykiel and co., they all talk about fashion and unique signature style, not about making multi-zillion business with tees, they really know how (savoir faire) with very strong passion. They work for the love of designing and creating newness, most importantly they do not answer to the market.

Une collection homme Gianfranco Ferré

January 14, 2009

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090113-lhomme-gianfranco-ferre Joining Gareth Pugh and Matthew Williamson, Gianfranco Ferré will put a show back on schedule. Designed by the newly appointed Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi (formerly known as 6267, a name they can no longer use). The team, whom was appointed last April , will present a men’s collection man in Milan on 18 January. The men’s collection is not the first for the house, we all remember how nasty it was right after showing the presentation that involved Lars Nilsson (or not). “There’s always a little risk to do something for first time, but the role of the designer: to propose new ideas, and in this case, find a balance with the history of Ferré,’ says Tommaso Aquilano to Women’s Wear Daily. “What we want to mix is a way of dressing with something most avant-garde, for a man who wants to live his life so relaxed.’ If you like their Ferré women‘s wear, you might keep an eye on this too. (*source: www.menstyle.fr)

YSL – Edition Unisex

January 14, 2009

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Not just another edition.

Where do you find such genius yet hard working staff in the market? (Don’t gimme Lagerfeld, okay?!) It was first exposed by Sarah Mower at US Vogue’s Nov 08 issue (as shown below). YSL is launching Edition Unisex next month with the new arrival. The idea behind it of course channels to the house’s androgyny ambiguity. They are literally taking pieces from men’s SS09 collection and pass it to women clientele in smaller size; or alter a little for the female body. New? Not really, but tempting for working women indeed. Hedi Slimane did exactly the same when he first joined Dior Homme. I recall trouser-wearing Mower wrote something similar to pay tribute to Helmut Lang. However, if Pilati’s work at the men’s department is so attractive to the point where can draw women’s attention, then they should do that.

YSL - Edition Unisex. As seen in US Vogue Nov 08 issue, reported by Sarah Mower.

Oh my god! I mean I love love LOVE this collection, back in July 08 when it first came out, I thought it’s the best men’s collection Stefano has ever done, even better than FW08. I wouldn’t even dare look at it too many times, ‘cos you know how it’s like when after looking at it and wanting it everyday, at the end, you no longer want it, cos you are sick by looking at it for five months. However, I checked out the new arrival at Joyce boutique at lunch today, one thing I can confirm is that - YSL is now as expensive as Lanvin, if not more. With organza, gazar, voile and crepe de chine used in the collection. I mean HKD 35,000 (app. USD 5,000) for a leather jacket is normal, but a silk trench (as seen in the pic) charges HKD 22,000 (or USD 3,200)? And HKD 12,000 (or USD 1,500) for a pair of sweat pants with silk applique? This is not for real, is it? We all know showpieces are expensive, but not this expensive, pleeasssse ….

Now, I knew I cannot wear Tisci’s Givenchy even if I want to due to the cut, and I thought I’d wear Balmain. However, I always always remain loyal to Pilati’s YSL. The question is how can I afford it this season? Is it fair to treat your fans with such strategy and price point? I mean fashion lover don’t buy YSL tees, and YSL by no mean should become a tee shirt brand. Alas, judging by the merchandise they have in HK, that seems to be the way to go … SAD!