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Monthly Archives: November 2008

Alber Elbaz by Jean Paul Goude

No, not Marc Jacobs, sorry, I always think Alber Elbaz is the Saint Laurent of our time. He respect women, he has taste, he challenges the traditional way of making a dress when remains every inch elegant and chic without making women look like a tart or dominatrix. And most importantly, he’s talking about style, not fashion. That’s crucial when you wanna be compared to Saint Laurent. He’s doing Saint Laurent at Lanvin, yes, that’s what I think. Now, 2nd time for Collection Blanche 2009, bridal pieces dedicated for the tradition of ‘La marée’ and always present with spring collection like the good old days, just in time to remember the things past. At this time of uncertainty, I think we all need creativity and joy to get through it, not compulsory commercialism anymore, but visual stimuli and true heart, Alber always manages to give us just that.

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81330394previewClaudia Schiffer for YSL Manifesto SS09. I have a feeling that she might top Kate Moss’s SS08 visually, I mean she keeps her appearance far better than Kate or Naomi for that matter, both have gained if you notice. And personally, I like Claudia now than ever, I used to dislike her very much when she was young, she was molded as a bimbo (and she was); but her work with Helmut Lang in late 90s changed my mind completely. After marrying and moving to London, Claudia is not longer that dump blonde/ male playmate cliche, and she became more human and chic, sans vavavoom Valentino, the same applies to Gwyneth Paltrow.

I kinda saw it coming with this choice of her, YSL tends to hint that by sponsoring ‘the next top model’ between seasons. Kate was using YSL aw07 ‘Catwalk’ handbag and ‘Tribute’ sandal heels daily before SS08 Manifesto, and so was Naomi (in heels and outfit). Claudia attended both YSL’s Dover St Market corner opening (in YSL), mingled with Naomi & Pilati. She uses her Muse 2 all the time and the leopard or black square belt was clung to her waist 24/7. Bien sur, attending the SS09 show in Paris was an obvious take.

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I think Claudia looked bad in Chanel, but it wasn’t entirely her fault, her Chanel ad was always bad and boring, KL’s photography is nothing but flat, and that shows. Her recent editorial shoots are rather good though, different photographers are now willing to use her, to dare her beauty. She might still pose ultra sexy, but appears less objectified and reminds me of what Nadja Auermann did in the 90s, a lot colder and abstract and distant. Remember Claudia was Monsieur Saint Laurent’s finale ‘la marée’ model for seasons in the 90s? I think she’d help YSL’s SS09 collection since it’s not as strong, and if the ad turned out amazingly, she should take some credit; and it again proves even more that it was KL’s incapability in turning a great model into an interesting subject.

We are in different time and era, no longer like 8 years ago, but it’s not difficult to sense the potential there. The new born handbag line launched by Proenza Schoulder is being talked about alot. Namely PS1, the 1st creation designed by Jack McCollough and partner Lazaro Hernandez has just been officially launched with a party thrown by Barneys NY. The duo has sent this bag to close friends and hip chicks in town, Vanessa Traina for one (was a good choix); a trick that Balenciaga used when they launched Lariat the motorcycle 8 years ago. It certainly does has its charm and is working. PS1 although looks a bit like YSL Besace in shape, but PS team has their NYC charisma for sure, and I see theirs got all the elements needed for a US designer handbag line work after Marc Jacobs.

e69caae591bde5908d1I know what he did for AW08 after the drama at Cerruti, but is he coming back with denim? Is it gonna be like the KVA thing? Compromise to tee, shirt and jeans? Or he just wanna be in lined with SS09 trend? Let’s find out later … Sigh! Designers, It’s so important to remain independent these days.

Don’t need to sniff hard. Your fashion nose should be able to sense it by now, it’s just the matter of time.emmanbf2

Designed by Christophe Decarnin, Balmain has grown so much so quickly with the help of the now very powerful <VogueParis> team, especially with Emmanuelle Alt. Although I personally don’t like his AW08 collection as much as his early work, but the hip factor plus the fine line of vulgarity sexiness triggered the tipping point. This is no long an inner circle thing. Kate Moss and Frankie Ryder were seen in those dove grey zebra print jeans transatlantically. Needless to say, E. Alt and Spanish Vogue’s Barbara Martello both live in those dhoti pants and animal printed tops; when Vanessa Traina, one of whom supported those fringed top boots during this summer. Under his hands, Balmain is now Paris long lost rock chick since Stella McCartney-Chloé The coolness has gone completely bonkers, jealous male counterparts can now be calmed. This is no longer a secret that the ever so timid Decarnin has created a SS09 for Balmain Homme. Without exhibiting it, similar atmosphere, animal prints and sexiness to women’s (and dhoti pants of course) is expected. Decarnin might as well be the first male fashion designer who dares and flirts with the male sexiness again after Tom Ford’s departure at Gucci. Are you teething and drooling now?

Who wears it well? who else?alt

Givenchy is launching his first watch collection created by Riccardo Tisci who ally purity and simplicity in its design. These “swiss-made” models reflect the interplay of sizes and materials. The color black shows off its varying intensity and subtle nuances throughout the collection, representing elegance, purity and graphicism.

The seven folds of the wrap-around strap bracelet contrast with the discreet and elongated dial, so beautifully set off with delicate silver hands. An elegant sleek metallic dial set in a cuff bracelet – more a second skin than a watch. Hugging your wrist and defining a silhouette, this is an original piece with definite personality, the essence of a profoundly modern style.
The “vintage” watch, spirited from the Givenchy archives, is a tasteful combination of consistent and balanced styles. Its slender dial is offset by a strap that blends in perfectly with the rectangular lines of the case. Coupling leather to metal, offering a unique and elegant take on time…
The chronograph watch has risen to the challenge: a sophisticated timepiece that still retains its sporty spirit. This extra-large watch offers both technical excellence and fine materials, its pure crystal case playing with the infinite subtleties of light.

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For the third edition of the Black Box, Givenchy presents an exclusive and original item of jewelry offered in a limited edition of 100 numbered examples: the Rosario.

Inspired by the necklaces from the A/W 2008/09 runway show, Riccardo Tisci has designed a precious, sophisticated version in 18-carat gold. An asymmetrical design, an exclusive Ex Voto and a star motif make the Rosario a modern interpretation of the traditional rosary.

This necklace will be available from November in Givenchy stores and a selection of retail outlets.
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I get this kind of anti- feeling sometimes, or not so much of an anti-ness, but by the time that Paris wrapped up, and have seen so much brilliance in Paris, I sort of forget or look down on the NYC collection. But not quite so this season as in SS09, because this is an even flatter season compare to last SS; so, when I look back to all the collections, there’s something in NYC, some, not all nor most.

I always like Proenza Schouler, and Alexander Wang single-handedly change my view on young US designers, totally blew me away; Thom Browne always gives me the ambiguous feeling, when Chris Benz whom I like from his very 1st collection. I still do not like Rodarte though- sorry. Is there any female designer I like? Yes, there is and she’s an old gal- the ever so soulful Donna Karan. Let’s see what they say, once you listen to them, you can’t help but fall for them more. Good looks plus designer charisma help indeed. Fashion is only skin deep at the end of the day.



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