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Daily Archives: November 19, 2008

Alber Elbaz by Jean Paul Goude

No, not Marc Jacobs, sorry, I always think Alber Elbaz is the Saint Laurent of our time. He respect women, he has taste, he challenges the traditional way of making a dress when remains every inch elegant and chic without making women look like a tart or dominatrix. And most importantly, he’s talking about style, not fashion. That’s crucial when you wanna be compared to Saint Laurent. He’s doing Saint Laurent at Lanvin, yes, that’s what I think. Now, 2nd time for Collection Blanche 2009, bridal pieces dedicated for the tradition of ‘La marée’ and always present with spring collection like the good old days, just in time to remember the things past. At this time of uncertainty, I think we all need creativity and joy to get through it, not compulsory commercialism anymore, but visual stimuli and true heart, Alber always manages to give us just that.

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81330394previewClaudia Schiffer for YSL Manifesto SS09. I have a feeling that she might top Kate Moss’s SS08 visually, I mean she keeps her appearance far better than Kate or Naomi for that matter, both have gained if you notice. And personally, I like Claudia now than ever, I used to dislike her very much when she was young, she was molded as a bimbo (and she was); but her work with Helmut Lang in late 90s changed my mind completely. After marrying and moving to London, Claudia is not longer that dump blonde/ male playmate cliche, and she became more human and chic, sans vavavoom Valentino, the same applies to Gwyneth Paltrow.

I kinda saw it coming with this choice of her, YSL tends to hint that by sponsoring ‘the next top model’ between seasons. Kate was using YSL aw07 ‘Catwalk’ handbag and ‘Tribute’ sandal heels daily before SS08 Manifesto, and so was Naomi (in heels and outfit). Claudia attended both YSL’s Dover St Market corner opening (in YSL), mingled with Naomi & Pilati. She uses her Muse 2 all the time and the leopard or black square belt was clung to her waist 24/7. Bien sur, attending the SS09 show in Paris was an obvious take.

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I think Claudia looked bad in Chanel, but it wasn’t entirely her fault, her Chanel ad was always bad and boring, KL’s photography is nothing but flat, and that shows. Her recent editorial shoots are rather good though, different photographers are now willing to use her, to dare her beauty. She might still pose ultra sexy, but appears less objectified and reminds me of what Nadja Auermann did in the 90s, a lot colder and abstract and distant. Remember Claudia was Monsieur Saint Laurent’s finale ‘la marée’ model for seasons in the 90s? I think she’d help YSL’s SS09 collection since it’s not as strong, and if the ad turned out amazingly, she should take some credit; and it again proves even more that it was KL’s incapability in turning a great model into an interesting subject.

We are in different time and era, no longer like 8 years ago, but it’s not difficult to sense the potential there. The new born handbag line launched by Proenza Schoulder is being talked about alot. Namely PS1, the 1st creation designed by Jack McCollough and partner Lazaro Hernandez has just been officially launched with a party thrown by Barneys NY. The duo has sent this bag to close friends and hip chicks in town, Vanessa Traina for one (was a good choix); a trick that Balenciaga used when they launched Lariat the motorcycle 8 years ago. It certainly does has its charm and is working. PS1 although looks a bit like YSL Besace in shape, but PS team has their NYC charisma for sure, and I see theirs got all the elements needed for a US designer handbag line work after Marc Jacobs.

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