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Monthly Archives: November 2008
Design For Living
When I receive the poster of the upcoming play [Design for Living], I was stunned for its stylish simplicity. My business partner and close friend Kary Kwok is an art director/tutor/photographer/editor-in-chief of [Razor Red] who is in charge of the play’s art & costume direction. I know he’s about to wrap up and kick start and he gave me a little backstage info. Directed by renowned playwright Edward Lam, The play is about a life of a fashionable working woman at a certain age, a little bit like [The Devil wears Prada]‘s gone right in a sense, starring Taiwanese veteran actress Sylvia Chang. Judging by the posters, the costume featured little black dress with a shaggy bob, all fall into the part pretty and fittingly. Before revealing the labels, let’s remind ourselves that play’s art directors are supposed to create the right wardrobe for the right scene w/ the right character, closer to the real life, nothing to do with current trend, d’accord? Chanel has sponsored 7 handbags and large sum of make up, with a potential watch or two, Anne Klein has sponsored evening numbers. Meanwhile, I am trying to hook him up with other potential top notch brands. Let’s see if we can make it a stronger wardrobe by the time they come to Hong Kong then.
Down Factor
Sometimes, everything just comes into place on their own, without urging. When I was in Tokyo last month, I noticed that they have down products all over in the market from all levels, be it made by local designer, or oversea’s brand like Moncler, of course. Among all, Moncler has the best designs I must say. Just two weeks ago, a friend of mine who’s now in Canada sent me pictures of Moncler and asked for advise. Even for someone like me who don’t like sportswear have to admit that they have surpassed functionality to a fashion notion, I was tempted to check them out at least. Then out came the news about Thom Browne’s joining at the new line Gamme Bleu, a male counterpart to Gamme Rouge, which was designed by Alessandra Facchinetti and now by Giambasttista Valli; the latter both have the delicate hands to create the very beautifully made ‘down couture’. As for men’s, I wasn’t really intrigued by previous crossover with Junya Watanabe or Balenciaga, both are now defunct; but Thom Browne’s creative input will definitely be an added-value. I checked the current collection on their official website, what’s shown in front of me are somewhat very T.B. already. Not only do they have the usual blouson style, but also with tailored jacket, knit and shorts, all with the air of French preppy spirit. It’d be really interesting to see what else could Browne do more to the brand.
Then, when I’m really looking forward to it’s arrival, the news came. Adrienne Ma, daughter of Joyce Ma, who opened the 2nd store of Y’s Mandarina Duck in Hong Kong yesterday has announced that she has carried Moncler and a boutique will be followed suit in Central, HK next month. I’m very happy for her.
Balmain Homme SS09
(L-R) The white tee and slip-ons are part of the look, black lace up dhoti pants will be about 1,350 EUR. Python print tee is a must-have for Balmain fans and the cropped jacket looks very sharp and pretty Balenciaga. I’d skip the plain nylon blouson, and hesitate about the pricey denim.
Bruni-Sarkozy avec Letterman
To court or not to court?!
Last Thursday, when I dined with my friend Lucienne, deputy fashion director of magazine [Jessica] at The Frites. Current fashion affair was of course on the table alongside the mussel and fish & chips that we ordered. We spoke about the power and coolness of [VogueParis], the stylish people on scene during the fashion week, Emmanuelle Alt, how we don’t appreciate Anna Dello Russo’s, as well as denim and glitz, etc etc. I made my view and suggested to her about Chris Benz. Then I find myself once again slaughtering Valentino’s way of treating Alessandra Facchinetti and the rumour about candidate Giambattista Valli, whose hideous designs and infamous courtship to socialites we both find uncool about and despise. On a contrary, there’s one brand which creations we both admire, and the gesture and appreciation between the brand, its designer, clientele and fanbase is mutual and harmonic and real.
The brand being Azzaro.
Coquettish and futuristic has been around and dominating the scene since 2004, with the rise of Nicolas Ghesquière, Alber Elbaz, Stefano Pilati and Olivier Theyskens; and later with Riccardo Tisci and Christopher Decarnin, Sexiness has gradually been dismissed. With the creativity of Vanessa Seward, Azzaro has been back with its 70s glam DNA for a couple of years now. They fill the gap of modern elegant sexiness that’s missing in the last 5 years and survived. They might not have the one-hit wonder or any it-bags, certainly have no hip factor whatsoever; but having Seward’s designs secured the right crop of B.Y.T., works just as fine and as appropriate. Recently, they asked British heiress Jemima Khan, the big sister of all heiress, to become the face of their iconic parfum Azzaro Couture (1st launched by founder Loris Azzaro in 1975). Such cooperation led to another crossover.
Azzaro, as a fashion house operates in a small scale and re-building, slowly but surely- succeeded. All due to them running with heart and without being bully or aggressive, that to me is class, and it shows. If you are interested to see their SS09 collection video and the AW08′s to die for accessories, click on their newly revamped website.
Very politically incorrect but great publicity
I wonder what kind of reaction do Gucci’s PR get when saw her in this outfit?
The Gucci-UNICEF X’mas collection has become a ritual for the two parties now, one good cause led to another, starting from last year, they hooked up with Madonna Ciccone to raise money for Malawi. For X’mas 2008, the label’s new Tattoo Heart Collection added Rihanna to become their face and patron. At the launching party, a shocking scene came. Madonna did it again- a double take. I don’t know what Gucci US’s PR has done wrong to deserve this, the ultimate material girl showed up to the event in a green ostrich feather dress, the very Louis Vuitton SS09 exit 43. The LV dress itself is not a mistake, but Madonna in it is. Why is she so obsessed with that Marilyn Monroe-esque curl which with the dress just do not match, it’s a disastrous faux pas. What’s more? Considering this is a Gucci event, guest of honor would be supposed to be dressed in a Gucci number; not only has she not, she chose to wear their direct competitor Louis Vuitton’s creation. It’s like a slap in Frida Giannini’s face (translate: ‘you’re no better than my Marc’ which is true though). Despite the rumour that she’s going to be the face of SS09 Vuitton’s campaign, this is just not a right gesture to do as an honored guest. I mean okay we know you can’t control Madonna the Leo, and she has the couldn’t care less power to against what the world thinks, but it’s just rude to the host. She so can wear LV later.
Now. Question. Did she do it deliberately? A revenge? A mickey take manipulated by Louis Vuitton? If you were Gucci’s PR, would you put her picture at the post-event press release? If so, would you credit her dress? That’s what you get when supporting good cause, PR!
Last but not least, why can’t singer dress well and like a rock star? I mean Beyoncé in Gareth Pugh? It doesn’t make you an avant-garde, my dear.
Suzy Menkes introduces latest hot spots in Paris
Here with the related article.
YSL Édition Soir
Yes, it’s about YSL again, almost every post is about YSL and why not? Some of you might have known, YSL is launching yet another line called Édition Soir, an evening line. Stefano Pilati has been very busy. How could he not be. Needing to work on so many collection including the runway, pre-collections, Édition 24; overlooking handbag and shoes, as well as the custom jewellery design with Alexis Mabille and now Édition Soir, which would allow a customer to order from a collection of 25 YSL evening dresses in a variety of colors and fabrics. “There’s a need,” Valerie Hermann said at an interview at NY Times. “French people don’t really wear long dresses, but they need cocktail dresses, and what if you’re the sister of the bride? Or even the bride? We want to be there if you need a dress.” Why are there only long dresses then?
Anyway, what a bargain to hire such a genius hard working designer.
[Yves Saint Laurent Style] @ The de Young Museum
[Yves Saint Laurent Style] exhibition has arrived to The de Young Museum San Francisco at late Oct 08. This clip shows the opening lecture they gave to audience. Attendees included Pierre Bergé and Hamish Bowles of Vogue US who gave a lengthy talk on Saint Laurent’s biography, when other guests talk about the master’s ”le Smoking’ and his influence to designers today. This is a very long video, but I’d say it worths your time to watch the importance of such artist.
I first wonder why in SF for the 2nd stop and only stop in the US? In the talk, Bergé explained that’s because they have many friends there and one of them was of course their very loyal customer Nan Kempner whom was born and brought up in a wealthy SF family. I just love the fact that the beautifully British-accented Bowles pronounces all the french name and the franco-anglo words (like homage, ensemble, directrice etc etc) in the most possible accurate manner, you just have to hand it to him.
http://www.ysldeyoung.org/
