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Monthly Archives: October 2008

As you might have noticed, I haven’t been blogging as much lately; reason being that I had a holiday in Tokyo from 11-15th and been catching up with the local scene afterwards (Bazaar’s 20th party and agnes b’s store opening, Mlle b herself was in town with family and co.), and well… being lazy literally.

As for the trip, I like Tokyo better this time, as I never really went with ‘fashion’ people before, but this time was with my savvy cousin, so I get the interests and took a nosy round in search of shops and stuffs in all scales- the discovery, really. One main point I like Tokyo more this time, cos I shop more. By no mean at all referring to the designer brands which we get discount from friends et al in Hong Kong anyway, but the street-oriented designs that are well-made, -fitted and -priced which I don’t find in Hong Kong anymore. In HK, there are expensive, mid-range but bad-quality-with-no-soul, or just high street.  I bought a lot of outerwear: jacket, baseball jacket, caban, blouson etc. The non-branded stores are heavily influenced by Junya Watanabe & Thom Browne; i.e. traditonal American school boy with a heavy twist and a lot of tartan here and there. Very very interesting indeed. Here’s the pictures I took from the trip:

(Below all) Freaky looking doll installation at Laforet, Omotesando. Very Nicolas Formichetti. The only thing worth seeing at the mall.

   

Typically Jap. Very cartoon. Very clean. Very homogenous. Very kitsch.

 

(L-R) The formidable stylish salesman at Comme des Garcons whom we dragged him out for this pic; CdG x LV pop-up store, picture taken from outside only, they have an exhibition upstairs, nothing special.

 

(L-R) Raf Simons’ new store in Tokyo, splattered with paint from this season. He has another one in Osaka where seems very fashionably happening now;  and a gigantic Jil Sander store just 10 steps away. 

   

(Below all) Deisel black label exhibition.

      

The very kawaii Merci beau coup shop. Hidden away from the main Aoyama shopping area. (Far left) We thought it was a window, when actually is the auto door. Tricky ~

    

Christophe Coppens who makes beautiful scarves and accessories. We went on the wrong day as they are closed to public for buying campaign, but we talked our way in and had a preview on SS09. Buyers will come in few days time. 

Little shops with hearts and soul are hidden and surviving at the corner and back alley, such as Hermaphrodite (since 2006). We were drawn to the poetic window first. Oh totally.

    

Another one is Journal Standard. Their products are not cheap, but again, they believe in themsleves and totally character-driven, which is severely lacked in Hong Kong.

 

So many things to catch up, and yet there are magazines and interviews not to be missed- all came out on 19 Oct at once…

  • The door is opened. After talking to Lynn Hirschberg, Stefano Pilati talks to Colin McDowell after the SS09 show, and will talk with him at a lecture at London College of Fashion later on 29 Oct 09.
  • Kate Moss seems to talk more whenever a new TopShop collection is about to launch, how can we blame her?
  • Cathy Horyn keeps it going with the darling of the moment Balmain designer Christophe Decarnin.

*Plus, the latest NY TMagazine Winter 09 issue is a must read to all Francophiles, ‘cos it’s all about the French.


I think the last time I saw models act or even laugh this hard was circa 1993 John Galliano or even earlier, I mean the joie de vivre. You see Irina definitely worked it. Click *here and go see the making of the winter08 campaign, Olivier Zahm is the art director I think. It’s a joy. 

Happy Birthday Sonia Rykiel.

Giovanni Giannoni @WWD
Alessandra Facchinetti takes her final bow at Valentino. Photo By: Giovanni Giannoni @WWD

Where is the savoir faire? What kind of fashion world are we in? First was Lars Nilsson at Ferré, followed by Paulo Melim Andersson at Chloé, and now Alessandra Facchinetti?

As a fashion critic and columnist, I try to express my most honest feeling towards fashion and designers in my writing. I praise and judge according to the designers’ visionary, ability and capacity, as well as my personal taste. Alessandra Facchinetti is someone rarely unique that fits Valentino perfectly, IMHO, and I like her touch of young delicate air that echos well to dust off Val’s madame image and make it valid for today. This is not what good potential designers deserve. All these young designers had their dream, craft and passion and they work hard, Nilsson was at Dior, Lacroix, Bill Blass and Nina Ricci before joining Ferré; Andersson was at Marni for 9 years which was surely something crucial that Chloé had cherished when appointed him. And Facchinetti is now being kicked out for the second time and replaced by handbag team for the second time? This is unfair, why bother hiring anyone, they might as well close the garment department. This tends to happen on upper-middle brands, it shows the reality of their actual size and scale, rather than their image. Ferré, Chloé and Valentino are not like Gucci or Louis Vuitton. Groups like PPR or LVMH where they have the time and money to blow and to nurture. Look at Celine and Loewe (I would have sold them long time ago). I mean, LVMH might have axed Roberto Menichetti and Ivana Omazic at Celine, but I see that’s a brand that needs a money maker urgently (thus Phoebe Philo) since Micael Kors’s success, but after Narciso Rodriguez, the boss definitely gave enough time to Jose Enrique Oña Selfa and Matthew Williamson at Pucci. Let’s hope Stuart Vevers and Peter Dundas stay for a longer time for their own and the company’s sake then. I mean, judging by the way they do things now, the next one that get axe can easily be Olivier Theyskens and Esteban Cortazar at Ungaro, I guess. Last but not least, it’d be so wrong if the money people at Valentino want to turn a couture house into a handbag ‘n accessory driven brand. It’s sick, the scene is sick. I mean Mr Valentino’s wealth did not come from handbag or shoes for sure. This makes me cherish the individual and minority even more. Christopher Kane and Marios Schwab, please don’t go serve any house as it  no longer a wise way to go.

Sorry, it’s Madame again.

Only been a week apart, Maria Luisa‘s online shop is now fully functioned. Although the virtual shop is nowhere near LuisaViaRoma or eLuxury, in terms of scale or inventory, but all merchandise are finely chosen and handpicked by the ultimate dream team, so you are choosing from the best fo the best- literally.

Natalia Brilli's leather band gear

Natalia Brilli

To get the attention from the professionals during fashion week, ML and co. usually put up an highlight window to promote her selected (lucky) few, and this time is Natalia Brilli. The celebrated jewellery designer has gone one step further in her leather-covering obsession: bypassers would discover her full-scale 100% black leather rock band in the window of Maria Luisa menswear store (more bones than flesh). Starting its tour in Paris, the installation will soon be seen in Brussels, New York’s Barneys, Miami’s Art Basel… Soon in a shop near you! Meanwhile, you can check her Dario Argento-inspired video made especially for Nick Knight’s ShowStudio for the “100 new fashion designers project”.

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