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Monthly Archives: August 2008

I adore Linda Evangelista, I mean, I grow up with Linda. I read Vogue because of her. I fell for fashion because of her. Just happy to see her being as celebrated as ever again this season. Not only is she the one and only original supermodel, who at 43, is currently the ultimate spokesperson of L’oreal’s, Prada fw08, and also little known her role at Germaine de Capuccini. Unstable economy has given these mega stars in fashion business another chance to shine and to do things in the most professional manner; importantly so, the emerging markets know and recognise their faces; their new fashion citizens have different taste, they want to look ‘Super!’, literally; they don’t want to look dreary like Sasha or Lara et co. Plus, they have a different shopping mood and unaffected by the gloomy economy. Yes, Linda’s gained quite a few pounds and admitted the Botox issue, but they still use her for one reason. She sells. Read and find out why she still rules!

  • I might as well retire- after reading this. *here
  • Philip Crangi talks to Simon Doonan. Who else? *here
  • Les Instants Précieux – Ines de la Fressange on Boucheron. *here
  • Take a peek at Repetto’s latest window at Dove Street Market. *here
  • Eastpak gets really crossed with Raf by who else? Raf, of course. *here
  • A two-month prepped interview- get upclosed with Gilles Dufour. *here
  • This is one of the reasons why you hire someone with a galerie as creative director. *here
  • I know what Hedi did this summer. What else? photo taking and DJing, bien sur. *here & here
  • Cedric Charbit, GMM WRTW of AuPrintemps Paris will go to Harrods UK, anything to do with the increasing number of French residents in the neighbourhood? *here

From ignoring the scene to paying attention, it was Phillip Lim’s S/S08 that got me into the current American fashion again. I normally skip checking them online, especially I do not really agree CFDA/Vogue US’s way of promoting all and any newcomers whom, some of them I consider plain and ‘not there yet’ to deserve it. The organization supports rather blindly, it’s more or less like giving them their 15-minutes of fame without really screening. There is one caught my eyes lately though. Asked by my friend from New York and talking to editors, we all like Alexander Wang.

alexander2bwangWang has a style, a L.A./ NYC style that could transcend far and beyond- worldwide. He created a relax, nonchalant Manolo-heeled global look that girls want to look exactly that. I logged onto his website and watched the show, the whole vibe pops with the music. It later made me wonder if it’s due to the atmosphere which from time to time can fool people, plus this is a very well-styled show; so, I googled his clothes and checked them up-close at online shops- there is something there. I told myself to forget about the name and judge the bare garment. Of course, black jacket is a black jacket, a blouse is a blouse, per se. But what’s in front of me with normal hair & makeup and no music, remains stylish; Wang’s work has that ‘je ne sais quoi’. Indeed, he’s no Alexander McQueen, but he’s rawness and mood is so right in time, it’s the style that caught me and ‘style’ worth more than anything these days. To me, his and The Row’s are doing something on international level from their pairs of American eyes. They didn’t just give you the cliche American sportswear casuals, there is something European about them, which I like.

balmainAcross the atlantic pond though, someone disappointed me. I liked his work normally, but not keen on his F/W08. I remember Christophe Decarnin at Balmain did something very Parisian from very early on. She’s Paris’ long lost rock chick since Stella McCartney at Chloé. But, where is that girl now? She’s gone to the States…?! The way Decarnin repeats the same old patterns over and over again gets on my nerves. And I’m not impressed with his use on Americana imspiration for two seasons in a row. Okay, he’s doing the Kate Moss bad girl things here, even the Giuseppe Zanotti designed fringed top booties are Moss’s. But where is the ‘design’? Don’t know if it’s because the supports from Vogue Paris came too easily, I don’t think he’s the kind of person who’d let fame get to his head, he’s too old for that. He’s becoming a stylist more than a designer slowly. I hope for his groundbreaking ideas in the seasons to come.

Some designers are under-rated, and others, well… let’s say I think Giambattista Valli is more of a PR who tries to make hideous dresses successfully than a designer. Okay, back to the subject. It’s a shame to see some veteran designers barely survive outside the radar, especially the ones with style – Lacroix, Rykiel, and where are Marcel Marongiu and Josephus Thimister (after Balenciaga)? These creators make beautiful clothes and want to make woman as beautiful, that’s all I know; it’s not about trend. Another one I like very much is Loulou de la Falaise, who set up her own brand three years ago and opened two shops in Paris after. I don’t know how she is doing, but I hope she’s doing good. You never know since this is a completely different ball game now. I always think that if one misses Saint Laurent sorely, they should have a shopping sphere at Loulou’s, then they’ll be happy and fixed.
Very unfortunately, her website no longer functions. If you are interested to see her work, take a peek at her shop opening back in S/S06 *here when Tim Blanks was still at [Fashion File]. Her creations is timeless anyway, needless to say, more Saint Laurent than ever.
Loulou de la Falaise
7 Rue de BourgogneParis 75007 France   +33 1 4551 4232
Finally – done! What a bloody hectic fortnight!!!
I said to myself not to take seasonal big issue for magazine from 2 seasons ago, I cannot believe I just did it again, not for just one but two magazines. Big hands for myself… It was really crazy and major mental exhausting, won’t surprise if I get meningitis; but no, what really kept me going was, whenever I think of the opportunities to promote, to introduce newer designers whom I think he/she with talent and deserves the little mentioning by mini me in the coverage. I know I’m no Suzy or Diane, let alone Anna, Franca or Carine, but if mini me don’t do it, I can dare say barely anyone else would in town, soooo… Just wanna say BIG thank you to Garance Doré, Bryan Boy, justJR and Tommy Ton of Jak&Jil for their brief and brilliant answer to all my questions. THANK YOU ~ Now, you lots might wonder what’s this about, damn, can’t expose just yet, but this little project is gonna be interesing for Hong Kong readers. I can only exposed it here on/ after 1 Sept, promised.
Now. Next. That means a special X’mas cafe in Hong Kong, fund raising for October Contemporary, Tod’s in-store event, model casting, in between regular writing for JET and Milk X, as well as all line-up works for Razor-Red – BUSY!!
PIERRE HARDY is pleased to announce the launching of the men’s bag collection for winter 08/09. In parallel to the women’s collection, the bags avoid heavy hardware, accessories and logos: only the pipping enhances the structure. They combine soft shapes with graphic design elements. The inside is entirely finished in leather and simply a card holder subtly bears the designer’s name. 2 styles: a “city” bag and a “sport” bag
3 combinations of colors: calf leather black calf leather havana / brown calf leather off white.
Exclusively available at -
Paris PIERRE HARDY — Jardin du Palais Royal, 156 Galerie de Valois, 75001
London — Dover Street & Matches
Berlin — The Corner
New York, Chicago, Boston, Dallas — Barney’s
Miami — The Webster
Hong Kong — Joyce
Tokyo — Isetan
Seoul — 10 Corso Como
Bangkok — Club 21
Before Hedi Slimane, there was Christophe Lemaire. In fact, Slimane used to work for him.Don’t know if you remember or even heard of Lemaire. The designer was the department head of haute couture and prêt-à-porter at Christian Lacroix before deciding to create his own label in 1990. Lemaire, his namesake label was first found with modern dressing approach in slim silhouettes which drew major attention within the fashion circle. His then considerably alternative style was welcomed by fans in Paris, Asia and Japan where he had and still has huge following. After S/S 2002, he was chosen to become the creative director of Lacoste as Giles Rosier’s successor. The main task the stylist received was to develop a new image of the company to attract new and younger buyers without losing old ones. And as all his collections had been a total success since 2002, he expanded Lacoste clothing line with new collection of yachting wear developed exclusively for the skipper Loick Peyron. He brought new blood into the company, having colored classically white sporty tennis skirts, collegiate sweaters, piqued polos, and brought Lacoste back onto fashion scene.
Lemaire presented a new men’s wear collection for S/S 2004 in 2003 and the line was a commercial success. However, he kind of positions himself out of the radar, don’t know if this is a deliberate gesture or not, but since he coming back to Hong Kong where Maria Luisa starts to carry this winter, I just checked and found this utterly stylish Parisian collection. To me it could easily compete with Chloé, Isabel Marant or Phillip Lim; and make other French brands like Paul & Joe, A.P.C., See by Chloé etc to shame. I’m really liking it, what a surprise! It’s highly recommended, totally.
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